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Using Double Down

Harry Porter wrote:

Players who deviate from Max-ER strategy for holds involving potential
frequently occurring hands, strictly on the basis of a player's
perception that they're unlikely to achieve long-term results, do so
at a very reliable cost over the course of their actual play.

I want to make it clear that I'm not dispelling the validity of all
non Max-ER strategies.

One example is the min-cost strategy that Steve Jacobs has often
cited. He's reasonably suggested it's applicable to progressive play.

In this case the strategy shift is to move away from holds that push
for the very infrequent royal. The statement isn't directed to such a
strategy.

- H.

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "stanfordwang" <stanfordwang@y...>
wrote:

···

an example: 9/6 job +1% cashback

max ER strategy:
er=99.54%, var=19.5, 10%ror bankroll=3628bets
advantage = 0.54%
bankroll growth/hour = 0.54% x 600bets/hour / bankroll = 0.089%/hour
hours to double bankroll = 1124

max Bankroll Growth strategy:
one change: hold 4 flush cards instead of 3 royal cards
er=99.52%, var=17.5, 10%ror bankroll=3414bets
advantage = 0.52%
bankroll growth/hour = 0.52% x 600bets/hour / bankroll = 0.091%/hour
hours to double bankroll = 1099

note: bankroll here is defined as money at risk, as it should be

======================================================================

   Would these changes be along the same line?

   Hold four flush and two pair over 3 royal in Deuces Wild?

   Hold four flush and pairs of Js,Qs,Ks over 10,J,Q and J,Q,K in
Double Bonus?

   Hold all paying pairs over 3 Royals in Pick'Em?

   Terry Murphy & VP Pappy

   "I would never pay to go to a sporting event where the outcome was
fixed to favor one side over another. Yet, I still go to casinos."
                       --VP Pappy

Dave wrote:
> *** I'd certainly like to see a list tabulated of how to vary from
> Max ER to conserve bankroll, since I am generally short-bankrolled,
> and I also know I won't reach the long-term anytime.***

Most such strategy changes are unlikely to change game bankroll
requirements sufficiently to make a game appreciably more "playable"
for someone who doesn't have the bankroll to play Max-ER strategy.

I don't believe it is generally correct to change playing strategy based
on the size of your bankroll. One playes max-ER because the objective
calls for it, not because the bankroll size "calls for" or "allows"
max-ER strategy.

One plays max-ER because they want the most dollars per hour from
their play. Max-ER does this best whether the bankroll is one unit
or a million units.

One plays min-risk because they want the highest probability of having
their bankroll last until a goal is reached. Min-risk does this best
whether the bankroll is a single unit or a million units. This remains
true whether the goal is "play indefinitely" as per risk of ruin, or
the goal is "multiply initial bankroll by N' or just "build bankroll up
to G units."

A player can choose an artibtrary probability of reaching the goal,
and then ask what bankroll is required to give that probability. So,
you can say "what bankroll is required to give a 50% probability
of doubling the initial bankroll" or you can say "what bankroll is
required to give a 70% probability of getting ahead by 100 units"
or even "what bankroll is required to give a 90% probability of
playing indefinitely". When bankroll requirements are framed in
this way, and used to compare two strategies (such as min-risk
strategy and max-ER strategy) the required bankrolls will have
the same ratio, virtually independent of the goal.

In other words, using min-risk instead of max-ER will improve
bankroll requirements by a percentage that is determined only
by the strategies (and the risk associated with each strategy).

[snip]

Players who deviate from Max-ER strategy for holds involving potential
frequently occurring hands, strictly on the basis of a player's
perception that they're unlikely to achieve long-term results, do so
at a very reliable cost over the course of their actual play.

Similarly, players who deviate from min-risk strategy do so at
a very reliable reduction in the probability that their bankroll will
survive until the goal is reached.

···

On Sunday 22 February 2004 04:34 am, Harry Porter wrote:

This thread is very interesting, but I agree with Jean Scott that some players may not realize that deviating from max ER is treading a very slippery slope. Changing strategy on rare hands where the ER change is small to reduce the variance will only change the overall game variance a very small amount. The effect of a slight reduction in variance will not generate significant extension of playing time on short bankrolls. A large trade of ER for variance reduction will only increase RoR in all but the shortest sessions and you could reduce a positve ER game to a negative one. You can check out the half-life charts for different games to see the trade off between ER and variance. The effects show up on the half life charts after only 10, 000 hands, that is not very long term for the average player. Many of us would like a lower variance higher ER game, but altering JoB to a lower ER does not seem worthwhile bacause it cannot go much lower without becoming a negative game.
Perhaps you can reduce variance in FPDW to the equivalent of JoB or PickEm without going negative, but I bet most of us like going for the royal or four deuces whenever it is the highest ER choice. Many of us have the opposite problem of going for the big hit when it is the lower ER choice.

The example of 5 of a kind with 3 deuces is very on point. When Dan Paymar wrote about this example I believe the main issue was the lost time for a hand pay or hopper fill, but with TITO the lost time does not apply so holding the 3 deuces would be the best play. Dan's optimum play strategy basically means not wasting time or making errors on plays that have a very tiny effect on overall ER. Pursuing "other strategies" is very interesting, but for most players a risky idea. I also believe calling any other strategy "min-risk" is misleading to the average player.

Chris
.

···

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Hello Everyone,

Two days ago, I was at the Mohegan Sun in Ct. I usually play 9/6 JOB at the
bars there. Sometimes pick em in the slot room. I was playing JOB and after
a couple of hours, not 1 quad. The machines have a quirk that I was aware
of. You can play up to 45 coins(Dollars) on some games but not JOB. Five is
the max there. I switched to double bonus (9/6 short pay) in the hopes of
getting lucky and catching a "due" quad. {Just a superstitious thing! I know
it's not due}. By mistake I hit the max bet button and bet $45. Before I had
time to be mad at myself, I saw 4 aces dealt. I'm not very emotional when
playing, even when getting a royal, but the fact that I screwed up and won
$7200 made me very excited and loud. For once, I feel like I beat the casino
at there own game. I think they should have a cover or flip top on the max
bet buttons on machines like this. Oh well, that's my story and I'm stickin
to it!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello,

  I'm going on a complimentary junket from Boston to Harrahs Reno next

  month. I noticed on Harrahs website that having a Platinum card

  entitles you to Limo service. It states Reno only. Is anyone familiar

  with this service? Does it include Airport pick up? Or is it to/from

  other casinos? Any other advice for trip is always appreciated. Thanks.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

<<One can also change strategies depending on the situation.>>

To my surprise, I have followed this long thread with interest,
understanding most of the general concepts and agreeing with most of them.
However, I am worried that newbies - or even experienced VP players - will
take a quote like Steve's above as an excuse to justify going to (or back
to) the human wish to deviate from the max ER strategy because they "want
to hit a royal badly" or they have other "mad" desires. They have every
"right" to their personal goals and personal strategy changes but most of
them lead to financial disaster because the math just doesn't support them.

Ultimately, all players are responsible for their own choices. Those who
are looking for excuses will undoubtedly be able to find them somewhere,
even if only in their own personal "bill of rights."

I may have asked this before, Steve, and I forgot your answer - but I think
it is wise to give a warning to people who may use this thread to justify
strategies that are not based on sound math.

I think those who tend to follow these threads are already sufficiently
interested in the math that they are already trying to find sound strategies.
Those who would tend to use excuses instead of math are unlikely to
follow these posts much at all.

For example, people who talk
about going up in denomination when they are losing so they can have more
winning short-term sessions. You wouldn't say this is okay if that is
their personal goal, would you, without pointing out the fact that the math
shows they will lose more dollars in their few losing sessions than they
won as a total in all their winning sessions?

I would try to find what their _real_ objectives are, rather than trying to
foist a max-ER perspective on them. Depending on their real objectives,
it may be that going up in denomination is correct. There are many myths
that are being perpetuated due to the prevailing max-ER mentality. One
such myth is "progressions are useless". While it is true that progressions
do not alter ER, they do have a significant impact on risk. Players who
play negative-EV games can reduce their risk by using progressions.

Aren't there some goals that
are "impossible" to reach because of the math?

Sure. A few examples:

1) If the max-ER/min-risk/min-cost strategy gives an unfavorable game,
then nothing can make the game favorable for the player.

2) If the max-ER strategy gives an X% return, no other strategy can
give a higher return.

3) If the min-risk strategy says that the required bankroll is N units, no
other strategy can give a smaller required bankroll for the same goal.

4) If the min-cost strategy says you can get C units out of the game,
for every unit pumped in, then no other strategy will give a better
"exchange rate."

5) Ignoring the math won't make it go away.

I think it is important to inject once in a while that these "other"
strategies you are referring to are still based on the math, albeit complex
math calculations that most of us are incapable of doing or even
understanding fully.

Yes, the strategies that I talk about are always based on math. I would
guess that I throw around enough numbers to make that clear, but
it never hurts to plainly state it.

What you are talking about are strategies that have
been VERY carefully thought out using sound math principles but, more
importantly, are for very specific situations and goals that most gamblers
do not have.

Yes and no. It _is_ true that I use very specific situations to illustrate
my claims, but that in no way implies that these principles apply only
to those specific situations. In fact, I've stated a couple of times that
many VP players would ultimately be better served by using a min-risk
strategy for everyday play, rather than a max-ER strategy. A player who
keeps their gambling funds in the bank and uses ATMs to access the
bankroll might quite naturally want to minimize the probability of having
to go back to the ATM, and the min-risk strategy is correct for that very
general objective.

I see the problem like this: most people who say that they never plan to
play long enough to get to the long term want a short-term "modified"
strategy that will allow them to play longer each session but still want to
win most of the time. You can't have it both ways. Max ER strategy takes
extreme patience that many gamblers just don't have so they are always
looking for an easier magic bullet.

You seem to want me to suggest that people just stick with max-ER unless
they have a compelling reason to use an alternate strategy. I can't say
that, because I cannot find any evidence to suggest that optimal strategies
have any kind of ordering amongst themselves.

Any optimal strategy requires discipline. However, part of my message is
that max-ER doesn't belong on an altar (or other special pedestal). It isn't
_the_ best strategy, but only one of a number of strategies which are each
best in their own way. I understand that you're not comfortable with this
concept, as it takes getting used to, but I feel it is a concept that will
eventually become generally accepted.

I'm not saying this thread doesn't belong on this forum. It does. But
most of you who were lost a thousand posts ago shouldn't feel guilty - or
shouldn't feel like you missed some magic bullet that would make you win
more. There is no "other" better strategy for those who want to travel
toward the goal of making more money (or losing less) and have the patience
to keep the faith in Max ER.

I'm sorry, but that is a false notion. Max-ER is not "the mother of all
strategies" and it does not yield the best results from all possible
perspectives, but only from the one specific perspective that is unique
to max-ER.

A player who wishes to minimize the probability of dealing with
the guilt and agony of taking the "walk of shame" to the ATM will
be better off using a min-risk strategy for all of their play. Such
a player will experience a slightly lower bankroll growth rate, but
will achieve a greater likelihood of having their bankroll eventually
reach whatever size they desire.

If you were to take a million max-ER players and start them each with
$1000, and take a million min-risk players and start them each with
$1000, and let all the players play for a very long time, you would
find that the average _surviving_ max-ER player would have more
money than the average surviving min-risk player, but more of the
min-risk player will survive to eventually receive untold wealth. But,
as you say, you can't have it both ways.

Instead of looking for magic bullet
strategies, most people would make more money if they worked on their
self-discipline to play only better pay schedules, searched harder for good
promotions, and practiced more with their VP software to be more accurate
on the Max ER strategies that are the best in most circumstances!!!!!!

Your max-ER bias is showing, and calling this "magic bullet strategies" seems
like an emotional appeal. The fact is, the max-ER promise of "more money"
has a clause hidden in the fine print -- you do get more money, but only if
your bankroll survives. The max-ER strategy does _not_ give you the best
chance for survival.

Searching for better pay schedules and good promotions, and practicing
the (chosen) optimal strategy are all good advice, whether your personal
taste leans toward winning more quickly (but with less confidence) or
toward winning less quickly but with more certainty for success.

I know it is difficult to let go of the idea that max-ER generally does
_everything_ better, but that isn't turning out to be mathematically
correct. There are very real tradeoffs that players should think about
when choosing how to play. At a very fundamental level, players
should at least answer the following question:

Q: Which is more important to you personally, having a higher
"wage" rate in $$$/hour, or having a higher probability of being
allowed to play as long as you wish, having your bankroll grow
without bound?

Those who choose $$$/hour should use max-ER strategy. Those
who chose better probability of getting rich should use min-risk
strategy. And those who said "neither" and have other specific
objectives in mind should choose a strategy that is better tuned
to their particular desires.

···

On Friday 20 February 2004 01:23 pm, Jean Scott wrote:

You can check out the half-life charts for different games to see the
trade off between ER and variance.

Comparing half-life charts for different _games_ is not a very meaningful
exercise. If one were to compute half-life charts for different _strategies_
applied to the same game, one would find that the min-risk strategy results
in a longer half-life than max-ER or _any_ other strategy.

The effects show up on the half life
charts after only 10, 000 hands, that is not very long term for the average
player. Many of us would like a lower variance higher ER game, but
altering JoB to a lower ER does not seem worthwhile bacause it cannot go
much lower without becoming a negative game.

Nobody is claiming that one can simply throw away any amount of ER in
order to achieve a tiny reduction in variance. In truth, I don't care much
about variance at all. It is _risk_ that I'm trying to reduce. Sometimes
that means reduced variance, and sometimes that means increase variance,
depending on whether the game is favorable or unfavorable.

Perhaps you can reduce
variance in FPDW to the equivalent of JoB or PickEm without going negative,
but I bet most of us like going for the royal or four deuces whenever it is
the highest ER choice. Many of us have the opposite problem of going for
the big hit when it is the lower ER choice.

In most of those cases, going for the royal is likely to reduce ER _and_
increase risk.

The example of 5 of a kind with 3 deuces is very on point. When Dan Paymar
wrote about this example I believe the main issue was the lost time for a
hand pay or hopper fill, but with TITO the lost time does not apply so
holding the 3 deuces would be the best play. Dan's optimum play strategy
basically means not wasting time or making errors on plays that have a very
tiny effect on overall ER. Pursuing "other strategies" is very
interesting, but for most players a risky idea. I also believe calling
any other strategy "min-risk" is misleading to the average player.

The average player has little or no clue what "risk" really means in a
mathematical sense. Thus, calling a strategy "min-risk" cannot mislead.

What is TRULY misleading is to imply that max-ER strategy is the best
possible strategy from the perspective of risk, because it most certainly
is not. That isn't a belief, that is a mathematical fact.

···

On Sunday 22 February 2004 12:30 pm, chris yeager wrote:

Steve Jacobs wrote:

Any optimal strategy requires discipline. However, part of my
message is that max-ER doesn't belong on an altar (or other special
pedestal). It isn't _the_ best strategy, but only one of a number
of strategies which are each best in their own way. I understand
that you're not comfortable with this concept, as it takes getting
used to, but I feel it is a concept that will eventually become
generally accepted.

Steve, I hope I'm not speaking presumptively when I suggest that Jean
likely has no discomfort with the concept. For myself, I in no way
hold max-ER as being the only valid approach. However, tell me what
you think of the following statement:

-- Given certain play goals/critera there are alternate strategies to
max-ER that are most appropriate for play. However, for the average
player a consistent use of max-ER strategy is likely to yield the most
productive and satisfying play experience.

-- As things stand, a max-ER strategy is the most accessible strategy
for the average player. Given the other challenges presented to all
but the advanced player (game/denom. choice, getting a handle on
casino relationships, promo management, etc.) it's inadvisable for the
average player to tackle alternate strategies.

(A key aspect to this is that there presently aren't sufficient
software tools and a body of accessible literature on the topic
through which most players can reliably incorporate alternate
strategies into their game with a reasonble confidence of accuracy. )

I'm not precluding it down the road ... keep putting the word out Steve :slight_smile:

- Harry

If my goal is to reduce the bankroll swings in FP JoB, which it
usually is, which strategy would be best to follow? I'd like to
reduce the likelihood of busting in a particular session, given that
I have about 60 5-coin units per session ($75 for quarter VP) in play.
Of course, with $75, I'll play nickel FP when I can, but that's not
always possible.

All other considerations are secondary. I don't mind reducing a
potential positive result a little to be more likely to stay in the
game longer on a bad streak. And, yes, I know that *not playing*
reduces the likelihood of busting to zero....

Thanks,

Dave

That is so exciting!!! I have fantasized of such a thing happening.
Congratulations.

One time when I was playing in the Calneva in Reno I had a lucky thing
happen (not as exciting as yours though.) I used to play 10-play
nickel Double Bonus poker. I am from Canada. The Calneva gives you
this terrific exchange on Canadian money but they will only give you
coin. The machine requires 50 nickels but I am not putting that many
nickels in a machine. I will only use bills.

  What I did was exchange $40 Cdn into US and request quarters. ($40 is
the max they allow at one time). I would do this several times until I
got $200 exchanged. Then I would unwrap the rolled coin, put it into a
bucket and exchange it for bills. The Calneva does not approve of
this!!! So I would do it on the sly. A change person saw me
unwrapping the rolled coin and gave me a funny look. I might get
caught so I threw a few quarters into a short-pay, single line, quarter
machine to look legitimate.

Within 3 minutes I got a Royal Flush for $1,000!! I was stunned!
Myra Andrews

···

On 22-Feb-04, at 11:44 AM, John J Canney wrote:

Hello Everyone,

Two days ago, I was at the Mohegan Sun in Ct. I usually play 9/6 JOB
at the
bars there. Sometimes pick em in the slot room. I was playing JOB and
after
a couple of hours, not 1 quad. The machines have a quirk that I was
aware
of. You can play up to 45 coins(Dollars) on some games but not JOB.
Five is
the max there. I switched to double bonus (9/6 short pay) in the
hopes of
getting lucky and catching a "due" quad. {Just a superstitious thing!
I know
it's not due}. By mistake I hit the max bet button and bet $45.
Before I had
time to be mad at myself, I saw 4 aces dealt. I'm not very emotional
when
playing, even when getting a royal, but the fact that I screwed up
and won
$7200 made me very excited and loud. For once, I feel like I beat the
casino
at there own game. I think they should have a cover or flip top on
the max
bet buttons on machines like this. Oh well, that's my story and I'm
stickin
to it!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have tried to follow the max ER, min risk, min cost strategy etc.
discussion the best that I can. Obviously I am not a math guru. At
my request Steve even published some of the strategies for a couple
of modes.

Now my question is: Could someone please put this all into
perspective on some of the more popular games. In otherwords, using
one or the other strategies results in ?how many more hands, how
many more this or that.

From some of the numbers I think I understand it looks like we are
talking about a few (maybe a dozen more or less hands)in a typical
session at best.

I hope I am wrong, but I am not able to glean it from the postings.

DWK

Steve Jacobs wrote:
> Any optimal strategy requires discipline. However, part of my
> message is that max-ER doesn't belong on an altar (or other special
> pedestal). It isn't _the_ best strategy, but only one of a number
> of strategies which are each best in their own way. I understand
> that you're not comfortable with this concept, as it takes getting
> used to, but I feel it is a concept that will eventually become
> generally accepted.

Steve, I hope I'm not speaking presumptively when I suggest that Jean
likely has no discomfort with the concept. For myself, I in no way
hold max-ER as being the only valid approach. However, tell me what
you think of the following statement:

-- Given certain play goals/critera there are alternate strategies to
max-ER that are most appropriate for play. However, for the average
player a consistent use of max-ER strategy is likely to yield the most
productive and satisfying play experience.

Let me rephrase your statement in terms that a carpenter would
understand: -- "Given certain tasks, there are tools other than
the hammer that are most appropriate. However, for the average
carpenter a consistent use of the hammer is likely to yield the
most productive and satisfying house-building experience."

Hammers don't make good saws, and saws don't make good
hammers. Which is best depends on what you are trying to do.
Saws are good at dividing single pieces of wood into multiple
pieces, while hammers are good at joining pieces of wood
together with nails. Your statement is a classic example of
"if your only tool is a hammer, every problem begins to look
like a nail".

-- As things stand, a max-ER strategy is the most accessible strategy
for the average player. Given the other challenges presented to all
but the advanced player (game/denom. choice, getting a handle on
casino relationships, promo management, etc.) it's inadvisable for the
average player to tackle alternate strategies.

That seems to me like saying "just learn to use a hammer, it's
inadvisable for the average carpenter to tackle learning how to
use other tools."

The most effective approach is to learn how to use a variety of
tools, and which tools work best under different circumstances.
I will grant you that this isn't easy in a world where there are
plenty of experts talking about how to use a hammer, and few
who are talking about how to use nail guns and power saws.

(A key aspect to this is that there presently aren't sufficient
software tools and a body of accessible literature on the topic
through which most players can reliably incorporate alternate
strategies into their game with a reasonble confidence of accuracy. )

Precisely why discussion such as this one are important. Nobody
can be expected to use new tools without proper instruction on
how to use them and what they are good for.

I'm not precluding it down the road ... keep putting the word out Steve :slight_smile:

I'm trying. I hope that I'm getting better at describing how some of these
alternate strategies can be used. That is difficult, because I'm still
refining my own understanding of this and trying to create better models
to describe how this stuff works.

I appreciate all of the participation in this discussion. All the questions
and comments are helping me learn new ways to describe this stuff,
and forcing me to think more about these ideas and why they should
matter to the average player.

···

On Sunday 22 February 2004 02:15 pm, Harry Porter wrote:

If my goal is to reduce the bankroll swings in FP JoB, which it
usually is, which strategy would be best to follow? I'd like to
reduce the likelihood of busting in a particular session, given that
I have about 60 5-coin units per session ($75 for quarter VP) in play.
Of course, with $75, I'll play nickel FP when I can, but that's not
always possible.

The min-risk strategy may be what you are looking for, but it depends
in part on how you define a "session". In particular, what criterion
do you use to say "I'm stopping now by choice and calling this a
successful session". If "successful session" means that you've
doubled or tripled your bankroll, or that you just want to stop because
your bankroll is "big enough," then min-risk is probably what you want.
It gives the lowest probability of busting while playing to reach a
monetary goal.

If you think of sessions mostly in terms of time or number of hands
played, and a successful session means playing for two hours and
then quiting because you've played "long enough" then max-ER
may be more to your liking. But, based on your comments about
want to avoid busting, I would guess that min-risk is a better fit.

All other considerations are secondary. I don't mind reducing a
potential positive result a little to be more likely to stay in the
game longer on a bad streak. And, yes, I know that *not playing*
reduces the likelihood of busting to zero....

Do you play only favorable games, and look to come out ahead,
or do you play unfavorable games and want to stretch your gambling
dollars out to get "entertainment value" from them? If you are using
cashback to make the game favorable overall, but are playing so
that you "reload" as little as possible, then again min-risk is probably
what you want.

···

On Sunday 22 February 2004 02:54 pm, Dave wrote:

   Would these changes be along the same line?
   Hold four flush and two pair over 3 royal in Deuces Wild?

I haven't gone through the math but I think that's too conservative.
The primary plays in full pay deuces are to hold all three-deuce 5-
kinds, hold one-deuce ace high 3-royal, hold 4 card inside straight
over 3 card double-inside straight flush with straight penalty, hold
JT7 suited over JT, don't hold any king high 2-royals.

   Hold four flush and pairs of Js,Qs,Ks over 10,J,Q and J,Q,K in
Double Bonus?

Yes. 4Flush3High > Pair(K,Q,J) > 4Flush > 3RF
Also, don't break full house for three aces.

   Hold all paying pairs over 3 Royals in Pick'Em?

Yes. Possible exception would be QJT suited because it can complete
two straight flushes.

Of all the games, All American probably produces the greatest changes.

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "vppappy" <tismurph@h...> wrote:

My recommendation would be to try to find a full pay multiplay, but
keep the total bet the same or less, so, instead of quarter single
line try nickel 5-play or 2cent 10-play or penny 25-play. In
addition, keep 4 card flush instead of 3 card royal, keep AKQJ
instead of QJ suited, keep two high cards instead of a high card and
a suited ten, keep king high instead of king and a suited ten if
there is a flush penalty card. Also, take your time, play slow, make
sure you are not making a mistake.

If my goal is to reduce the bankroll swings in FP JoB, which it
usually is, which strategy would be best to follow? I'd like to
reduce the likelihood of busting in a particular session, given

that

I have about 60 5-coin units per session ($75 for quarter VP) in

play.

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "Dave" <wolverines72@y...> wrote:

Of course, with $75, I'll play nickel FP when I can, but that's not
always possible.

All other considerations are secondary. I don't mind reducing a
potential positive result a little to be more likely to stay in the
game longer on a bad streak. And, yes, I know that *not playing*
reduces the likelihood of busting to zero....

Thanks,

Dave

Terry Murphy wrote:

···

   Would these changes be along the same line?
   Hold four flush and two pair over 3 royal in Deuces Wild?
   Hold four flush and pairs of Js,Qs,Ks over 10,J,Q and J,Q,K in
Double Bonus?
   Hold all paying pairs over 3 Royals in Pick'Em?

-----

I wanted to add to stanfordwang's strong reply some actual EV's for
these holds, making their differences a little more substantive. I
hope to also demonstrate how anyone can do a decent evaluation of
these questions. Consider this post offered in the spirit of the
adage "teach a man to fish ..."

-----

I'll note that without using software such Frugal Video Poker to
determine the reduction in variance from the strategy change (as a
proxy for change in bankroll requirement, where FVP permits it) it
becomes a judgement call as to whether to strategy change it merited.

However, a decent threshold of reasonable reduction in EV from the
strategy change is in the range of 0.5-1.0 coins per 5 coin wager,
provided you have reason to expect a significant variance reduction.
When the EV reduction is less than this range you've got a very likely
candidate on your hands. If the EV reduction significantly exceeds 1
coin then it's very unlikely you need to consider the change any further.

-----

I've worked my numbers up using WinPoker (bdpw) and, as backup, VP
Strategy Master (vpsm). It's possible I might have killed two birds
with one stone by using Frugal Video Poker, but I own up to being a
creature of habit and I'm still less familiar and comfortable with
FVP. It's likely the superior tool for this, however.

------------------

stanfordwang replied to:

> Would these changes be along the same line?
> Hold four flush and two pair over 3 royal in Deuces Wild?

with:

I haven't gone through the math but I think that's too conservative.

my comment: Using bdwp to construct a few example hands using the
"Analzye / Any Hand" feature:

-- 4F over 3RF reduces EV by 3 to 4 coins (NSUD/FPDW analyzed)
-- 2Pr over 3RF reduces EV by 4 coins.

As SW notes, these aren't advisable changes.

------------------

stanfordwang replied to:

> Hold four flush and pairs of Js,Qs,Ks over 10,J,Q and J,Q,K in
> Double Bonus?

with:

Yes. 4Flush3High > Pair(K,Q,J) > 4Flush > 3RF
Also, don't break full house for three aces.

my comment:

-- 4F(3hi) over 3RF reduces single coin EV by .1 coins.
-- HiPr (J/Q/K) over 3RF reduces by .4 coins

The 4F change would be a strong candidate. The Hi Pair is a good
candidate, but I personally would prefer having a handle on the
magnitude of variance change before adopting it.

---------

(As a sidenote to the above, there might appear to be a bit of a
paradox here. If, as SW notes, a high K/Q/J pair is stronger than 4
Flush, why wouldn't holding it over the 3RF involve a lesser cost when
a 4 Flush to held vs the 3RF. Without belaboring the answer, it has
to do with the high pair possibilities in each case. That's enough to
shift relative values when a 3RF is present.)

-- SW's FH over trip Aces is warranted and I considered incorporating
it into my 10/7 DB play. But the game is so damn streaky on the whole
that I threw the towel in on this change. There just was no damn way
it was going to make feel any happier about my wins or losses and when
you're getting your ass whipped at least going for the Aces gives you
the illusion that you've got a shot at making a comeback :slight_smile: (btw,
clearly this strategy move is for 10/7 ONLY. For 9/7 it's a kick in
the ass.)

------------------

stanfordwang replied to:

> Hold all paying pairs over 3 Royals in Pick'Em?

with:

Yes. Possible exception would be QJT suited because it can complete
two straight flushes.

my comment:

-- hi pair over 3RF/QJT: Definitely not. There's a 2 coin cost here.
-- hi pair over other 3RF:
... holding hi pair over A high 3RF is standard strategy.
... for KQJ/KQT/KJT the cost is 1 coin. I'd be inclined to go with
the 3RF, even if the 1 coin is within my stated threshold. Without
looking at the variance numbers closely, the pick'em RF is a
relatively low variance contributor and my guess is that the var
reduction doesn't warrant this cost.

-------------------

SW - Hope you don't mind my "treading" all over your post and that you
find it a construction addition!

- Harry

Steve Jacobs wrote:

Dave wrote:
> *** I'd certainly like to see a list tabulated of how to vary from
> Max ER to conserve bankroll, since I am generally short-bankrolled,
> and I also know I won't reach the long-term anytime.***

Most such strategy changes are unlikely to change game bankroll
requirements sufficiently to make a game appreciably more "playable"
for someone who doesn't have the bankroll to play Max-ER strategy.

I don't believe it is generally correct to change playing strategy based
on the size of your bankroll.

I assume "generally" is a key word, leaving room for exceptions.

One playes max-ER because the objective
calls for it, not because the bankroll size "calls for" or "allows"
max-ER strategy.

This implies that the objective and the bankroll size are independent,
which I believe is generally unrealistic.

One plays max-ER because they want the most dollars per hour from
their play. Max-ER does this best whether the bankroll is one unit
or a million units.

One plays min-risk because they want the highest probability of having
their bankroll last until a goal is reached. Min-risk does this best
whether the bankroll is a single unit or a million units. This remains
true whether the goal is "play indefinitely" as per risk of ruin, or
the goal is "multiply initial bankroll by N' or just "build bankroll up
to G units."

This seems rather all-or-nothing to me. What if (which I believe is
more common, if not universal, and which I know is true of me) the
goal incorporates both time and chance of success? I assume that
would mean that the optimal strategy would be a mixture of max-ER and
min-risk, somewhere in between the two. I've never explicitly defined
my goal, but it might best be described as "end up with as much money
as possible after 20 years." This means that there can be no risk of
ruin, so that, the smaller the bankroll gets, the less fluctuation it
can afford. I assume this means not just playing games of smaller
denomination as the bankroll diminishes, but also leaning towards a
min-risk strategy.

···

On Sunday 22 February 2004 04:34 am, Harry Porter wrote:

Jean Scott wrote:

<<One can also change strategies depending on the situation.>>

To my surprise, I have followed this long thread with interest, understanding most of the general concepts and agreeing with most of them. However, I am worried that newbies - or even experienced VP players - will take a quote like Steve's above as an excuse to justify going to (or back to) the human wish to deviate from the max ER strategy because they "want to hit a royal badly" or they have other "mad" desires. They have every "right" to their personal goals and personal strategy changes but most of them lead to financial disaster because the math just doesn't support them.

I doubt if there's any way of completely avoiding such "growing
pains." Peter Griffin pointed this type of danger out in discussing
strategy changes in blackjack. While it may be correct to, say,
occasionally stand on 12 vs. a dealer 7, the potential loss from
incorrectly standing enormously outweighs the potential gain from
correctly standing, so that sufficient misuse of the correct strategy
would have been worse than never even hearing that the simple strategy
of "always hit 12 vs. a dealer 7" wasn't always best.

Out of the confusion arising from believing that max-ER is not
necessarily the best strategy and not knowing what to replace it with,
some players will make ridiculous mistakes that aren't optimal, no
matter what their goal. One advantage to sticking to a max-ER
strategy is in avoiding such dangers. But it has dangers of its own.
Simplistically sticking to max-ER virtually inevitably means over
betting one's bankroll in playing too high a denomination. Generally,
once a video poker game has been decided on, I doubt if there's much
to be gained by whatever improvements over max-ER there are, but all
kinds of disasters are possible (which I've seen happen to many
"professionals") by applying the same principle to choice of
denomination.

snip

Let me rephrase your statement in terms that a carpenter would
understand: -- "Given certain tasks, there are tools other than
the hammer that are most appropriate. However, for the average
carpenter a consistent use of the hammer is likely to yield the
most productive and satisfying house-building experience."

Hammers don't make good saws, and saws don't make good
hammers. Which is best depends on what you are trying to do.
Saws are good at dividing single pieces of wood into multiple
pieces, while hammers are good at joining pieces of wood
together with nails. Your statement is a classic example of
"if your only tool is a hammer, every problem begins to look
like a nail".

Steve, there are good analogies and bad analogies. This one was very
bad. The point of Harry's post was to point out that max_EV
strategies are very difficult to master and complicating the issue
for most people is non-productive. A hammer is NOT a difficult tool
nor is a saw. Most of us can select the apporpriate one. Any VP
strategy is very difficult for the average player and deciding
between multiple strategies even more difficult.

Dick

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, Steve Jacobs <jacobs@x> wrote: