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Using Double Down

Hammers don't make good saws, and saws don't make good
hammers. Which is best depends on what you are trying to do.
Saws are good at dividing single pieces of wood into multiple
pieces, while hammers are good at joining pieces of wood
together with nails. Your statement is a classic example of
"if your only tool is a hammer, every problem begins to look
like a nail".

aren't we really talking about whether to use a 9oz hammer, 10oz
hammer or a 12oz hammer. Not wether to use a saw, hammer, or a glue
gun?

for all of us, the use of any of these statagies during a 4 hr
session makes very little impact on the outcome compared to the
ramdomness of the hands we receive. The different stratagies are
not going to create 4 of a kinds out of dealt bad hands, so it goes
back to randomness (luck) carrying 90+% of the outcome and stratagy
only a small % of each individual session outcome, that is why
people who play VP with no knoledge of the game can win by just
getting lucky, even if they play horribly.

HURRAH! Finally a little common sense. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

.....bl

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "jimnkelli" <jbecker11@c...> wrote:

>
aren't we really talking about whether to use a 9oz hammer, 10oz
hammer or a 12oz hammer. Not wether to use a saw, hammer, or a glue
gun?

for all of us, the use of any of these statagies during a 4 hr
session makes very little impact on the outcome compared to the
ramdomness of the hands we receive. The different stratagies are
not going to create 4 of a kinds out of dealt bad hands, so it goes
back to randomness (luck) carrying 90+% of the outcome and stratagy
only a small % of each individual session outcome, that is why
people who play VP with no knoledge of the game can win by just
getting lucky, even if they play horribly.

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "Harry Porter" <harry.porter@v...>
wrote:

I'll note that without using software such Frugal Video Poker to
determine the reduction in variance from the strategy change (as a
proxy for change in bankroll requirement, where FVP permits it) it
becomes a judgement call as to whether to strategy change it

merited.

Does Frugal Video Poker allow you to change the strategy and
calculate the resulting average return and variance? That's a nice
feature, I just do it by hand.

For example, full house with trip aces in 10/7 double bonus:

First you need to calculate the probability of getting that hand, the
possible outcomes for five cards from a 52 card deck are
52x51x50x49x48/(5x4x3x2x1)=2,598,960. The outcomes that are full
house with trip aces are: 4 suits of trip aces x 12 ranks of pairs x
6 suits of pairs = 288. The probability is 288/2598960 = 0.01%. Next
we need the average return and variance. For the new strategy of
keeping the full house, the average return is 10 and the variance is
0. For the old strategy, we will draw two cards to the trip aces. The
possible outcomes for two drawn cards are 47x46/2 = 1081. Possible
ace plus another card are 46, possible pairs are 11 x 6 plus the one
pair of the same rank as the discarded pair = 67 leaving 1081-46-67 =
968 trips. The average return is (46x160 + 67x10 + 968x3)/1081 =
10.11. The variance is (46x(160-10.11)^2 + 67x(10-10.11)^2 + 968x(3-
10.11)^2)/1081 = 1001. To get the contribution to the total return
and variance, we multiply these values by the hand probability:
keep trip aces strategy: contribution to return = 0.01% x 10.11 =
0.101%, contribution to variance = 0.01%/100 x 1001 = 0.1
keep full house strategy: contribution to return = 0.01% x 10 = 0.1%,
contribution to variance = 0

summary for 10/7/5 double bonus:
maxER strategy: average return = 100.1725%, variance = 28.26
keep all full houses strategy: average return = 100.1715%, variance =
28.16

Steve Jacobs wrote:
>> Dave wrote:
>> > *** I'd certainly like to see a list tabulated of how to vary from
>> > Max ER to conserve bankroll, since I am generally short-bankrolled,
>> > and I also know I won't reach the long-term anytime.***
>>
>> Most such strategy changes are unlikely to change game bankroll
>> requirements sufficiently to make a game appreciably more "playable"
>> for someone who doesn't have the bankroll to play Max-ER strategy.
>
>I don't believe it is generally correct to change playing strategy based
>on the size of your bankroll.

I assume "generally" is a key word, leaving room for exceptions.

Absolutely. I'm mostly talking about strategies that are pretty basic.

>One playes max-ER because the objective
>calls for it, not because the bankroll size "calls for" or "allows"
>max-ER strategy.

This implies that the objective and the bankroll size are independent,
which I believe is generally unrealistic.

The objective and boundary conditions determine the optimal strategy,
and whether that strategy varies depending on bankroll. For a large
class of simple objectives, the optimal strategy doesn't change as
the bankroll fluctuates.

>One plays max-ER because they want the most dollars per hour from
>their play. Max-ER does this best whether the bankroll is one unit
>or a million units.
>
>One plays min-risk because they want the highest probability of having
>their bankroll last until a goal is reached. Min-risk does this best
>whether the bankroll is a single unit or a million units. This remains
>true whether the goal is "play indefinitely" as per risk of ruin, or
>the goal is "multiply initial bankroll by N' or just "build bankroll up
>to G units."

This seems rather all-or-nothing to me. What if (which I believe is
more common, if not universal, and which I know is true of me) the
goal incorporates both time and chance of success?

Then the optimal strategy may vary with both time and bankroll, and
possibly with constraints or other boundary conditions. It can get
hairy pretty fast, even for situations that seem like they should be
simple.

I assume that
would mean that the optimal strategy would be a mixture of max-ER and
min-risk, somewhere in between the two.

The optimal strategy would be neither max-ER nor min-risk. I'm not sure
what it would mean to be "between" the two, more like it is just at a
different point in a multi-dimensional "strategy space."

I've never explicitly defined
my goal, but it might best be described as "end up with as much money
as possible after 20 years." This means that there can be no risk of
ruin, so that, the smaller the bankroll gets, the less fluctuation it
can afford. I assume this means not just playing games of smaller
denomination as the bankroll diminishes, but also leaning towards a
min-risk strategy.

If things go very badly, it might mean giving up VP for a while to
generate a new bankroll through other means. Completely disallowing
ruin isn't really practical since casinos don't deal in fractions of pennies.

···

On Monday 23 February 2004 07:14 am, Tom Robertson wrote:

>On Sunday 22 February 2004 04:34 am, Harry Porter wrote:

I don't think so. Minimizing risk is doing something that is inherently
different than maximizing ER. ER cares about how much time is involved
in the process, while risk cares only about reaching the goal without
regard to how many games are involved. Minimizing cost does something
inherently different that either of these things.

Your example of different size hammers is like playing same same
game with different coin denominations. If you want to maximize ER,
the same strategy applies to 9/6 JoB games of all "sizes" provided
that the payoff schedules are the same.

···

On Monday 23 February 2004 08:57 am, jimnkelli wrote:

> Hammers don't make good saws, and saws don't make good
> hammers. Which is best depends on what you are trying to do.
> Saws are good at dividing single pieces of wood into multiple
> pieces, while hammers are good at joining pieces of wood
> together with nails. Your statement is a classic example of
> "if your only tool is a hammer, every problem begins to look
> like a nail".

aren't we really talking about whether to use a 9oz hammer, 10oz
hammer or a 12oz hammer. Not wether to use a saw, hammer, or a glue
gun?

>
> aren't we really talking about whether to use a 9oz hammer, 10oz
> hammer or a 12oz hammer. Not wether to use a saw, hammer, or a

glue

> gun?

I don't think so. Minimizing risk is doing something that is

inherently

different than maximizing ER. ER cares about how much time is

involved

in the process, while risk cares only about reaching the goal

without

regard to how many games are involved. Minimizing cost does

something

inherently different that either of these things.

Your example of different size hammers is like playing same same
game with different coin denominations. If you want to maximize

ER,

the same strategy applies to 9/6 JoB games of all "sizes" provided
that the payoff schedules are the same.

I believe it has already been said that the difference in these
strategys is small, hence the different size hammers. Otherwise if
the strategys were vastly different, ala hammer, saw, pitchfork.
Then the ER would be vastly different, and it cant be. I believe we
are talking different size hammers still....

Yow! Forgive me for asking but WHO the hell wrote WHAT here??? :slight_smile:

- H.

(actually, if you're REALLY message savvy, you can match up
indentations. good luck ... I'll stick to the Sunday Times crossword
when I wanna rack my brains)

> Steve Jacobs wrote:
> >> Dave wrote:
> >> > *** I'd certainly like to see a list tabulated of how to vary

from

> >> > Max ER to conserve bankroll, since I am generally

short-bankrolled,

> >> > and I also know I won't reach the long-term anytime.***
> >>
> >> Most such strategy changes are unlikely to change game bankroll
> >> requirements sufficiently to make a game appreciably more

"playable"

> >> for someone who doesn't have the bankroll to play Max-ER strategy.
> >
> >I don't believe it is generally correct to change playing

strategy based

> >on the size of your bankroll.
>
> I assume "generally" is a key word, leaving room for exceptions.

Absolutely. I'm mostly talking about strategies that are pretty basic.

> >One playes max-ER because the objective
> >calls for it, not because the bankroll size "calls for" or "allows"
> >max-ER strategy.
>
> This implies that the objective and the bankroll size are independent,
> which I believe is generally unrealistic.

The objective and boundary conditions determine the optimal strategy,
and whether that strategy varies depending on bankroll. For a large
class of simple objectives, the optimal strategy doesn't change as
the bankroll fluctuates.

> >One plays max-ER because they want the most dollars per hour from
> >their play. Max-ER does this best whether the bankroll is one unit
> >or a million units.
> >
> >One plays min-risk because they want the highest probability of

having

> >their bankroll last until a goal is reached. Min-risk does this best
> >whether the bankroll is a single unit or a million units. This

remains

> >true whether the goal is "play indefinitely" as per risk of ruin, or
> >the goal is "multiply initial bankroll by N' or just "build

bankroll up

> >to G units."
>
> This seems rather all-or-nothing to me. What if (which I believe is
> more common, if not universal, and which I know is true of me) the
> goal incorporates both time and chance of success?

Then the optimal strategy may vary with both time and bankroll, and
possibly with constraints or other boundary conditions. It can get
hairy pretty fast, even for situations that seem like they should be
simple.

> I assume that
> would mean that the optimal strategy would be a mixture of max-ER and
> min-risk, somewhere in between the two.

The optimal strategy would be neither max-ER nor min-risk. I'm not sure
what it would mean to be "between" the two, more like it is just at a
different point in a multi-dimensional "strategy space."

> I've never explicitly defined
> my goal, but it might best be described as "end up with as much money
> as possible after 20 years." This means that there can be no risk of
> ruin, so that, the smaller the bankroll gets, the less fluctuation it
> can afford. I assume this means not just playing games of smaller
> denomination as the bankroll diminishes, but also leaning towards a
> min-risk strategy.

If things go very badly, it might mean giving up VP for a while to
generate a new bankroll through other means. Completely disallowing
ruin isn't really practical since casinos don't deal in fractions of

pennies.

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, Steve Jacobs <jacobs@x> wrote:

On Monday 23 February 2004 07:14 am, Tom Robertson wrote:
> >On Sunday 22 February 2004 04:34 am, Harry Porter wrote:

***snippage***

> > Steve Jacobs wrote:
> > >> Dave wrote:
> > >> > *** I'd certainly like to see a list tabulated of how to

vary

from
> > >> > Max ER to conserve bankroll**

***major snippage***

Okay!! Thanks to the regulars for a great discussion on this topic.
Now, where do I get this "min-risk" strategy??

Thanks again, y'all :slight_smile:

And, for the record, I'd order the ElCo breakfast with *extra* bacon!

Dave -- the meat-eating, short-bankrolled, slot-loving VP player...

(Chew on Dat!!)

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, Steve Jacobs <jacobs@x> wrote:
> On Monday 23 February 2004 07:14 am, Tom Robertson wrote:
> > >On Sunday 22 February 2004 04:34 am, Harry Porter wrote:

For what game? For FPDW, run FVP or VPSM with a royal payoff of 452
bets, and a deuces payoff of 198 bets. The resulting strategy is the
one that Steve has been calling min-risk, I believe, though that can't
be proven easily.

The strategy changes from standard FPDW strategy are:

- Hold dealt quints even if they include three deuces
- Hold 4-card natural Str Flush over 3-card Royal
- Hold 3-card 1-gap Str Flush (4 or higher low) over TJ suited
- Hold 3-card 2-gap Str Flush (no Ace) over TQ or JQ suited
- Hold JT7 suited over JT suited
- Hold 4-card inside straight draw over TQ or JQ suited
- Never draw to two royal cards including a K

There may be others; these were all I noticed.

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "Dave" <wolverines72@y...> wrote:

Now, where do I get this "min-risk" strategy??

--
Randy Hudson

> Now, where do I get this "min-risk" strategy??
For what game? For FPDW, run FVP or VPSM with a royal payoff of 452
bets, and a deuces payoff of 198 bets. The resulting strategy is

the

one that Steve has been calling min-risk, I believe, though that

can't

be proven easily.

to get sorokin optimized strategies:
fpdw: rf=623, deuces=188 (sorokin R(1)=0.999346831)
kobjoker: rf=651, 5k=190 (sorokin R(1)=0.999463346)
all american: rf=638, sf=189 (sorokin R(1)=0.999410692)
10/7 double bonus +0.5%cb: rf=657, aces=154 (sorokin R(1)=0.999490836)
9/6 job +1%cb: rf=628, sf=49 (sorokin R(1)=0.999365501)
pick'em +0.5%cb: rf=832, sf=222, 4k=115 (sorokin R(1)=0.999347649)

ror (risk of ruin) = R(1)^bankroll
sorokin adjusted payoff = (1-R(1)^payoff)/(1-R(1))

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "ime002" <ime@p...> wrote:

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "Dave" <wolverines72@y...> wrote:

I believe it has already been said that the difference in these
strategys is small, hence the different size hammers. Otherwise

if

the strategys were vastly different, ala hammer, saw, pitchfork.
Then the ER would be vastly different, and it cant be. I believe

we

are talking different size hammers still....

Not picking on this posting. Just using it to appeal to someone out
there to put all this thread in to perspective in terms of number of
hands gained per 1000 played or some such ratio. Something that
us "dummies" can understand rather than all the theoretical jargon.

DWK

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "jimnkelli" <jbecker11@c...> wrote:

Not to be critical or picky, but could you explain your e-mail name, stanfordwang. Perhaps your name is Wang and you are a student or former student at Stanford? More than a few people have mistaken your postings as being done by the very famous BJ expert, Stanford Wong. I would think perhaps you wouldn't want to give this mistaken impression, so an explanation would be helpful.

···

________________________________________
Jean $¢ott - Go to http://www.FrugalGambler.biz
for VP software and strategy cards; "frugal" books;
and the NEW "Tax Help for the Frugal Gambler."

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "Harry Porter" <harry.porter@v...>
wrote:

Yow! Forgive me for asking but WHO the hell wrote WHAT here??? :slight_smile:

It doesn't really matter, Harry. You were correct about this thread
a lllooonnngggggg time ago when you noted that it was all rather
academic. If you want to have a reasonable shot at winning vp play,
you should avoid negative expectation games; play only positive
expectation games; seek situations where the peripherals like
cashback, drawings, etc. make the already positive even better; and
be certain you're adequately bankrolled for the game/denomination
you intend to play.

On the other hand, if your "goal" is to avoid having yourself capped
by cousin Gino by winning a RF while playing a negative expecation
game, all the while as the moon is in seventh heaven, and only
between the hours of 3 am and 4:47:5 am, and....Good Lord, what
nonsense. I've been an academic all my life, and I believe that I
recognize when I hear it academic exercise with little regard for
meaningful usefulness in the actual world.

Pete (BTW, I deleted with great pleasure, even delight, the
gobbledygook to which your question above refers.)

--- "deuceswild1000" <deuceswild1000@y...> wrote:

Not picking on this posting. Just using it to appeal to someone out
there to put all this thread in to perspective in terms of number

of

hands gained per 1000 played or some such ratio. Something that
us "dummies" can understand rather than all the theoretical jargon.

in post:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vpFREE/message/26456
I showed that with one strategy change you can change the hours of
play needed to double your bankroll from 1124 hours to 1099 hours.

Steve, several days ago I indicated that I'd have some brief follow-up
questions in this thread; sorry for the delay, but I'm in the midst of
some extra reserve duty. I've been trying to keep up with this thread
as much as possible, and have noted some very interesting things. I'm
pretty weak on Kelly betting, although I think I managed to grasp much
of that discussion, so I've saved all of those posts and I intend to
review the info I've collected on Kelly, revisiting web-sites, etc. Any
way, my additional comments and questions appear below:

Steve Jacobs wrote:

Perhaps my quibble is with the word "appropriate".

I want to move onto technical questions, so let's just say that I took
liberty in my choice of wording that I shouldn't have, and based it on
what I thought were somewhat reasonable assumptions that I still think
would apply to the vast majority of vp players, and therefore merely
meant that I though max-ER would, for various practical reasons, appeal
to most vp players more than would the various alternative strategies
that we have also discussed. That was presumptuous and perhaps very wrong.

snip

... However, it
is possible to take a standard issue WinPoker or FrugalVP
and trick it into computing/using strategies that are min-cost or
min-risk.
If the program can be configured with user specified payoff values,
then the concept I call "virtual payoffs"

snipped some additional description/explanation of virtual payoffs

Yes, Steve, I'm familiar with how WinPoker and Frugal can be
manipulated, such as can be done with the roughly +6/+4/+2 adjustments
for Multi Strike. My comment, essentially, that there are no programs
available to practice alternative strategies was meant more along the
lines of not being able to _fully_utilize_ the programs after you have
loaded a virtual table that, and by this I mean, for example, playing
and saving games which track your actual credits, with payments being
made according to the paytable that you would see in a casino, rather
than according to the 'virtual' paytable that must be kept loaded in
order for the game to recognize strategy errors. In other words, I want
my game to look like a JoB-9/6 paytable, with a 4000-coin Royal, 45-coin
Full-House and 30-coin Flush, and to be paid accordingly, but I would
like the game to tell me when I've made an error while using the min-RoR
strategy, or the min-cost strategy, etc, and to then record my errors
for review later, etc. I might want to look at some graphs in Frugal,
too. Since we can have only one table ... or the other ... loaded at a
time, it is impossible for these programs to do everything for a
strategy _other_ than max-ER that they are designed to do when the
strategy is _for_ max-ER and is therefore using the same paytable as
that which is displayed (i.e., there is no virtual paytable).

Virtual payoffs
are determined by scaling the actual payoffs according to a
scaling policy that is consistent with your objective. Max-EV
uses no scaling at all, just the actual payoffs. Min-cost uses
a linear scaling policy, but excludes one unit of each payoff
from the scaling process.

Do you mean that you are adjusting each hand to account for the fact
that one betting unit for each hand is merely a return of your bet?
I.e., Jacks+ is really a push, so you make it '0', and with two-pair,
we're really only 'winning' one betting unit, so you change it from '2'
to '1'? I assume that the reason why you are not having to include a
line for a negative one (-1) for losing hands is because it would just
reproduce the identical max-ER strategy; this is why we don't need to
include any per-line adjustments for coin-in cash-back, although
whatever difference that factor might make would probably be so slight
as to still never make any discernable difference in choices anyway.

  Min-risk uses a non-linear scaling
policy, scaling a payoff of N units to a value of (1-R^N)/(1-R),
for a risk parameter of R.

Are you saying that you use the above formula to compute a necessarily
different factor for each different hand in a paytable? ... and could
you give an example -- at least of a value for R and what that
represents? I'm having a little difficulty here because I thought I
understood the min-risk (and I assume that is just a shortened name for
min-RoR, right?) ... to be completely independent of either
bankroll/stake and goals, as well as duration of play (number of games),
but rather that it just generated the absolutely optimal strategy for
playing as long as possible, and that there is not really a particular
risk level that has anything to do with the strategy (other than just an
incidental result). In trying to grasp this, I keep leaning toward
imagining that the risk parameter is some sort of acceptable risk level,
such as 10% risk of ruin, for which the R value would be .1 -- but I
can't seem to substitute any values into your formula to produce
anything that resembles the values in your table, below.

Thanks again for your help with all of this.

Bill Velek

  The virtual payoffs are then plugged
into the VP program, and the cost or risk parameter is adjusted
until the program gives a breakeven game. This generally
takes a few iterations.

Here are the virtual payoffs that give min-cost and min-risk
strategies for 9/6 JoB:

Max-EV min-cost min-risk min_cost_royal
---------------------------------------------------------------
   800 806.7376 947.8674 975.9932
     50 50.4132 50.5096 50.0000
     25 25.2024 25.1244 25.0000
       9 9.0675 9.0149 9.0000
       6 6.0422 6.0062 6.0000
       4 4.5202 4.0025 4.0000
       3 3.0169 3.0012 3.0000
       2 2.0084 2.0004 2.0000
       1 1.0000 1.0000 1.0000
---------------------------------------------------------------

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jean Scott wrote:

Not to be critical or picky, but could you explain your e-mail name, stanfordwang. Perhaps your name is Wang and you are a student or former student at Stanford? More than a few people have mistaken your postings as being done by the very famous BJ expert, Stanford Wong. I would think perhaps you wouldn't want to give this mistaken impression, so an explanation would be helpful.

I had just assumed that he had picked it specifically for that reason, but changed the Wong to Wang as a joke. I guess we never know who we're corresponding with, do we. But don't worry, Jean; you can rest assured that I am really the genuine Bill Velek. Heh, heh. Actually, I probably really ought to adopt a separate web-identity, what with making folks mad at me all the time.

Cheers.

Bill Velek

paisonvp wrote:

snip

I've been an academic all my life, and I believe that I
recognize when I hear it academic exercise with little regard for
meaningful usefulness in the actual world.

Now that statement and the related snippage have expressed a pretty disturbing and disappointing attitude to be coming from an alleged "academic".

By claiming to have been an academic all of your life, I presume that that means that you are or were a teacher of some sort. My wife is a teacher, too, but she wouldn't dare seriously refer to herself as an academic because she teaches in grade school; I think that folks who have some real legitimacy behind such a claim -- or at least expect to be viewed and taken seriously by most folks in that way -- are most typically college professors or other types of _scholars_ within a field, and certainly teaching at least in the higher grades where serious discussions occur. I do not consider myself to be an academic, nor have I ever claimed to be one; I'm only a semi-retired lawyer and judge. But even though I can't speak as an academic, I am still rather surprised that a bona fide academic would ever express the sort of sentiments that you have just expressed, especially about an intellectual discussion occurring in an open forum of this sort which permits such lengthy discussions to proceed without interference in the least bit with other people and discussions. It's one thing to divert valuable class-time away from something that is important to the progression of a class and onto something frivolous, and I would expect an academic to be critical of that, but in _this_ venue it is a very simple matter for anyone to completely ignore the thread and focus instead on the threads that they like. Most academics I know are intellectuals, and are generally pretty open-minded and tolerant of discussions which are, in fact, merely "academic" -- i.e., of little practical importance in the real world but often discussed in class merely for the purpose of furthering a discussion; this happened frequently in college, as I recall.

Now this is how I view these discussions, as an non-academian, and a few reasons why I engaged in this discussion as I did:

1. Until the extent of the differences between the alternative strategies is known, I have no way of knowing if the consequences of switching from one to another under various circumstances would be significant enough to make any practical difference to justify the change. That is why I have been asking questions; I am trying to learn whether or not this is something to be pursued further, and since I don't think this is the sort of thing that can be found in the archives or via a search engine, I thought it was important to some folks -- and certainly to me -- to discuss it here.

2. Aside from alternative strategies and whether they are ultimately ever useful, I have been learning other things, in the process, that I expect will be useful to me in other ways. These unexpected spin-offs of new knowledge, in and of themselves, make following such a thread very worthwhile; spin-offs are not a strange phenomena, and a great example of real world usefulness coming from something that seems rather distant and esoteric is the phenomenal spin-offs in technology that have come from space exploration.

3. Like other somewhat intellectual diversions like chess, crytograms, or playing "Trivial Pursuit", sometimes a good discussion is worthwhile for its mental gymnastics, if nothing else. I found most of the posts to be rather thought provoking, and sometimes pretty challenging. It sure beats the hell out of watching the idiot box all the time.

4. Without exception, all of the _true_ academics whom I know are the types who would say that there is no such thing as stupid questions, and they would have been more likely to _encourage_ discourse, whether they found it personally interesting or not, rather than to denigrate it.

5. If you have a solution or suggestion that is likely to have answered the questions which were posed during our discussion, I sure wish you would have spoken up. I would have _LOVED_ to have obtained answers to all my questions without having to spend my time asking them or dissecting posts in an effort to gain a more complete understanding.

Some of the longer threads that a few folks have belly-ached about have turned out to be the most interesting to me, probably because they were different from the same old stuff that you can find in a hundred places. So for all you folks out there who don't like discussing math, then let's try to get some _in_depth_ discussion going in an area that has not already been talked to death.

Thanks.

Bill Velek

another data point to ponder:
game is 9/6 jacks or better with 1% cashback/bounceback/comp/whatever

max ER strategy:
ER=100.54%, Variance=19.5, R(1)=0.999365501, 10%ror bankroll=3628

max Bankroll Growth strategy (rf=628,sf=49):
ER=100.53%, Variance=17.6, R(1)=0.999316638, 10%ror bankroll=3369

In English, what this means is that for a small drop in average
return of .01% the bankroll on a 5 coin quarter machine drops from
$4535 to $4211. Or, as a crude approximation (2SD), after 2000 hands,
max ER is $13.50 plus or minus $494 while max Bankroll Growth is
$13.25 plus or minus $469. Is it worth it? Are there other games
where the difference is greater or less? You will have to investigate
and decide.

P.S. About my name: GO BIG RED!

Dick wrote:

> Steve, I think your 3 examples sum up the different approaches

(max-

> EV, min-risk, min-cost) quite well. I, for one, would never have

any

> interest in 2 and 3. So, I think you're saying a max-EV strategy
> would be best for me?

Yes, someone who truly is interested only in getting the most

$$$/game

should just use max-EV.

But never? Suppose you were offered the following choice:

1) 9/6 JoB with a royal jackpot that gives 105% ER, but you are
only allowed to play 1000 rounds, after which you are banished
from the casino forever.

2) 9/6 JoB with a royal jackpot that gives 103% ER, but you are

only

allowed to play until you hit a royal flush, after which you are

banished

from the casino forever.

3) 9/6 JoB with a royal jackpot that gives 101% ER, no limit on how
long you can play or how many jackpots you can claim.

If you would choose 2) or 3), then $$$/game isn't all that matters

to you.

Now, what if 1) was your only option. A min-cost strategy would

maximize

the average number of dollars you could extract from the casino,

but would

require you to play longer. Would you still play max-EV?

How about if case 2) was your only option? There, using a

min_cost_royal

strategy gives the most dollars for this limited opportunity, but

requires you

to play longer.

This is not unlike deciding between two different job offers. Most

jobs have

benefits of some kind in addition to wages. Surely you consider

more than

$$$/hr when evaluating a job offer.

Steve, clearly your first two options are simply mind games. They
would not be profitable for a casino and therefore would never
happen. So, until I see a REAL example that reasonably applies to my
play then it appears max-EV is still my best approach.

They're not entirely unrealistic. Progressives, on which the casino
makes a profit overall, can occasionally get higher than a 105%
return. Option 1 can happen due to a jackpot being unusually high in
a casino that bars professional progressive players. I've been in
situations when I was playing a high progressive and casino personnel
and security were gathering around everyone playing, preparing to
throw us all out. Max-EV, approximately, disregarding the normal
costs of hitting jackpots, quickly becomes the best strategy in such
situations. Option 2 can happen on a progressive when the casino has
made it clear that they'll remove the machines as soon as the jackpot
gets hit.

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, Steve Jacobs <jacobs@x> wrote:

On Thursday 19 February 2004 08:56 am, rgmustain wrote:

stanfordwang wrote:

P.S. About my name: GO BIG RED!

I made an ill-advised snipe about your handle choice the day. My
apologies. You may, however, wish to reconsider it for this forum.

People are bound to make a best-avoided association with Stanford Wong.

- H.