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Using Double Down

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "deuceswild1000"
<deuceswild1000@y...> wrote:

···

Has anyone ever published a min risk, or a min hands between royal
strategy or anyothers besides max ER?

DWK

*********************************************************************
"a min hands between royal strategy" may not be very interesting,
one line from this strategy for any game will read:

"from AAAA2: hold a singleton Ace not suited with the deuce" (on
second thought, might as well delete the last 5 words of this
quote) !!

L. Wluiki

Thanks to one and all who replied to my original inquiry. I found
the discussion quite interesting and very informative. Learning
about new ways of looking at things is good for the soul. I
appreciate being given the opportunity to expand my horizons.

This is one of the great things about belonging to a group like this.

.....bl

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "Harry Porter" <harry.porter@v...>
wrote:

If you're playing on a near-infinite bankroll so that ROR = ~0%>>

Harry

As a practical matter, if this is not the case, isn't your best
strategy to just keep your bankroll in your pocket and walk out of
the casino.

Most of us, I would think, add to our bankroll, continuously
throughout out lives. All of us, also, play VP prudently and
sensibly. If not, we would be gambling with the "bread money".
And, that is not good.

.....bl

Harry Wrote:

> > From a practical standpoint, max ER is the appropriate strategy. Most
> > alternate discussion is esoteric.

Steve responded:

> I disagree quite strongly. I believe this view that max-ER is somehow
> inherently better is a reflection of human bias. Max-ER is what people
> are most comfortable with, and most used to thinking about. The
> "appropriate" strategy depends on what problem you are trying to
> solve. But, if the max-ER hammer is the only tool in your toolbox,
> every problem tends to look like a nail :wink:

Bill followed with:

I understand your point, Steve, but I'm inclined to agree with Harry
that from a _PRACTICAL_ standpoint -- considering that max-ER is the
only strategy that you can practice and easily check with either
WinPoker or FrugalVP, and that most articles and discussion seems to
make the assumption of a max-ER strategy -- it is the most appropriate
_practical_ choice. Sort of like choosing Mac vs. IBM, ... Windows vs.
Linux, ... or Netscape vs. MSIE. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder,
and arguments can be made as to why one choice is better than the other,
but sometimes common practical considerations have a greater influence.

Perhaps my quibble is with the word "appropriate". Taking your example,
I do in fact run Linux. I know many who use Mac. Clearly the most
_popular_ OS today is Windows, but "appropriate" is clearly a
different concept than "popular". For me, Linus _is_ the more appropriate
OS, and so that is what I use. Your choice may vary, and that doesn't
imply that my choice was inappropriate. So, I don't feel it is correct to say
that one choice is "the" appropriate choice. That is like saying "pickles
and ketchup are appropriate for hamburgers, but onions and mustard
are not."

Max-EV is the convenient choice. Moving beyond the convenient
choice to the appropriate choice does require extra effort, and from
a practical standpoint most people might not bother. However, it
is possible to take a standard issue WinPoker or FrugalVP
and trick it into computing/using strategies that are min-cost or min-risk.
If the program can be configured with user specified payoff values,
then the concept I call "virtual payoffs" can be used to trick the VP
program into thinking it is maximizing EV when it is actually optimizing
something else. I use that very trick with my own VP program to
compute min-risk and min-cost strategies even though the program
was not designed to compute such strategies directly.

In a nutshell, "virtual payoffs" means that you pretend the game
has payoffs that are different than the real payoffs, and use the
virtual payoffs to compute the playing strategy. Virtual payoffs
are determined by scaling the actual payoffs according to a
scaling policy that is consistent with your objective. Max-EV
uses no scaling at all, just the actual payoffs. Min-cost uses
a linear scaling policy, but excludes one unit of each payoff
from the scaling process. Min-risk uses a non-linear scaling
policy, scaling a payoff of N units to a value of (1-R^N)/(1-R),
for a risk parameter of R. The virtual payoffs are then plugged
into the VP program, and the cost or risk parameter is adjusted
until the program gives a breakeven game. This generally
takes a few iterations.

Here are the virtual payoffs that give min-cost and min-risk
strategies for 9/6 JoB:

Max-EV min-cost min-risk min_cost_royal

···

---------------------------------------------------------------
   800 806.7376 947.8674 975.9932
     50 50.4132 50.5096 50.0000
     25 25.2024 25.1244 25.0000
       9 9.0675 9.0149 9.0000
       6 6.0422 6.0062 6.0000
       4 4.5202 4.0025 4.0000
       3 3.0169 3.0012 3.0000
       2 2.0084 2.0004 2.0000
       1 1.0000 1.0000 1.0000
---------------------------------------------------------------

Playing a min-cost strategy is mathematically equivalent
to pretending that the game pays the values in the min-cost
column. If you maximize EV with these virtual payoffs, you
get a breakeven game with a "virtual ER" of 100%. The
resulting strategy minimizes cost. Similarly, using the
min-risk virtual payoffs gives a game that is breakeven
in terms of virtual ER, and the resulting strategy minimizes
risk.

Note that the virtual payoffs for min-cost are all pretty close
to the real payoffs for the game. This casues the min-cost
strategy to be only slightly different than the max-EV
strategy. Similarly, the min-risk virtual payoffs are all
close to the virtual payoffs that minimize the overall cost
of playing until hitting a royal, and these two strategies
are only slightly different from each other. In contrast,
the differences between max-EV and min-risk are much
greater.

By the way, Steve, if doesn't happen to be that the min-Cost solution is
normally short-coin instead of full-coin, is it? My previous arguments
in defense of short-coin were not very popular either.

Nope. Min-cost is only slightly different than max-EV. Full coin play
gives a lower cost than short coin play. This may or may not hold
for risk, depending on the game. If a game is positive with full coin
play and negative with short coin play, then any kind of optimization
that cares about dollars will select full coin play. If the optimization
only cares about time (or some other entity other than dollars), such
as "play as many hands as possible before going broke" then short
coin play can be optimal.

Thanks for asking. Here's the min-risk strategy of 9/6 JoB:

  Jacks or Better 8/5
  Distribution of Final Hands

···

On Thursday 19 February 2004 08:14 pm, deuceswild1000 wrote:

Has anyone ever published a min risk, or a min hands between royal
strategy or anyothers besides max ER?

-----------------------------------------------------------------
Final Hand Payoff % Hit Cycle % Return
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Royal Flush 4739.34 0.00262748499 38059.208845780 2.49050733251
Straight Flush 252.55 0.01108750376 9019.162664848 0.56002517891
4/Kind 125.62 0.23596653297 423.788910835 5.92850942875
Full House 45.07 1.15019961527 86.941430576 10.36892413547
Flush 30.03 1.10507892600 90.491274105 6.63732726690
Straight 20.01 1.12795809186 88.655776063 4.51462983967
3/Kind 15.01 7.43423688537 13.451279740 22.31192828874
Two Pair 10 12.91500168368 7.742933563 25.83534035749
High Pair 5 21.35280817162 4.683224764 21.35280817162
-----------------------------------------------------------------
                          45.33496489552 2.205802965 100.00000000006

cost: 0.9999999999989

            Min-Risk Strategy
              High cards: AKQJ
------------------------------------------------------------
Rank Return Cards to keep
------------------------------------------------------------
    1 947.8674 Royal Flush
    2 50.5096 Straight Flush
    3 25.1244 4/Kind
    4 21.8523 4/royal
    5 9.0149 Full House
    6 6.0062 Flush
    7 4.3098 trips
    8 4.0025 Straight
    9 3.5764 4/str-flush (0 holes)
   10 2.5974 two pair
   11 2.3932 4/str-flush (1 hole)
   12 1.6326 suited KQJ
   13 1.6295 suited QJT
   14 1.5505 suited AQJ/AKJ/AKQ
   15 1.5440 suited KJT/KQT
   16 1.5372 pair (AKQJ)
   17 1.4501 suited AJT/AQT/AKT
   18 1.2170 4/flush
   19 0.8723 unsuited KQJT
   20 0.8244 pair (T98765432)
   21 0.8085 unsuited QJT9
   22 0.7447 unsuited JT98
   23 0.7323 3/str-flush (1 hole, 2 high)
   24 0.7281 3/str-flush (0 holes, 1 high)
   25 0.6809 4/straight (0 holes, 0 high)
   26 0.6371 3/str-flush (2 holes, 2 high)
   27 0.6322 3/str-flush (1 hole, 1 high)
   28 0.6269 3/str-flush (0 holes, 0 high)
   29 0.6172 suited QJ
   30 0.6012 suited KJ/KQ
   31 0.5957 unsuited AKQJ
   32 0.5847 suited AJ/AQ/AK
   33 0.5367 3/str-flush (2 holes, 1 high)
   34 0.5319 4/straight (1 hole, 3 high)
   35 0.5313 3/str-flush (1 hole, 0 high)
   36 0.5153 unsuited KQJ
   37 0.5067 suited JT
   38 0.5025 unsuited QJ
   39 0.4925 suited QT
   40 0.4894 unsuited KJ/KQ
   41 0.4809 Jack
   42 0.4786 suited KT
   43 0.4772 unsuited AJ/AQ/AK
   44 0.4770 Queen
   45 0.4727 King
   46 0.4712 Ace
   47 0.4698 suited AT
   48 0.4354 3/str-flush (2 holes, 0 high)
   49 0.3602 (draw 5 cards)
------------------------------------------------------------

Here's the min_cost_royal strategy:

  Jacks or Better 9/6
  Distribution of Final Hands
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Final Hand Payoff % Hit Cycle % Return
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Royal Flush 4879.97 0.00278247476 35939.229867036 2.71567641434
Straight Flush 250 0.01112788140 8986.436534213 0.55639407022
4/Kind 125 0.23551041940 424.609663779 5.88776048512
Full House 45 1.14852750261 87.068006446 10.33674752346
Flush 30 1.11215238799 89.915735541 6.67291432792
Straight 20 1.13084611820 88.429361334 4.52338447281
3/Kind 15 7.41651292395 13.483425570 22.24953877184
Two Pair 10 12.89193329458 7.756788506 25.78386658916
High Pair 5 21.27371734508 4.700635925 21.27371734508
-----------------------------------------------------------------
                          45.22311034797 2.211258784 99.99999999994

cost: 1.0000000000011

            Recommended Strategy
              High cards: AKQJ
------------------------------------------------------------
Rank Return Cards to keep
------------------------------------------------------------
    1 975.9932 Royal Flush
    2 50.0000 Straight Flush
    3 25.0000 4/Kind
    4 22.4487 4/royal
    5 9.0000 Full House
    6 6.0000 Flush
    7 4.3025 trips
    8 4.0000 Straight
    9 3.5551 4/str-flush (0 holes)
   10 2.5957 two pair
   11 2.3825 4/str-flush (1 hole)
   12 1.6582 suited KQJ
   13 1.6545 suited QJT
   14 1.5694 suited AQJ/AKJ/AKQ
   15 1.5664 suited KJT/KQT
   16 1.5365 pair (AKQJ)
   17 1.4761 suited AJT/AQT/AKT
   18 1.2170 4/flush
   19 0.8723 unsuited KQJT
   20 0.8237 pair (T98765432)
   21 0.8085 unsuited QJT9
   22 0.7447 unsuited JT98
   23 0.7313 3/str-flush (1 hole, 2 high)
   24 0.7266 3/str-flush (0 holes, 1 high)
   25 0.6809 4/straight (0 holes, 0 high)
   26 0.6366 3/str-flush (2 holes, 2 high)
   27 0.6312 3/str-flush (1 hole, 1 high)
   28 0.6254 3/str-flush (0 holes, 0 high)
   29 0.6188 suited QJ
   30 0.6028 suited KJ/KQ
   31 0.5957 unsuited AKQJ
   32 0.5864 suited AJ/AQ/AK
   33 0.5362 3/str-flush (2 holes, 1 high)
   34 0.5319 4/straight (1 hole, 3 high)
   35 0.5304 3/str-flush (1 hole, 0 high)
   36 0.5153 unsuited KQJ
   37 0.5079 suited JT
   38 0.5024 unsuited QJ
   39 0.4941 suited QT
   40 0.4893 unsuited KJ/KQ
   41 0.4810 Jack
   42 0.4800 suited KT
   43 0.4771 unsuited AJ/AQ/AK
   44 0.4770 Queen
   45 0.4728 King
   46 0.4714 suited AT
   47 0.4712 Ace
   48 0.4349 3/str-flush (2 holes, 0 high)
   49 0.3602 (draw 5 cards)
------------------------------------------------------------

Entries 46 and 47 change places in priority. A more detailed strategy
using penalty cards would likely show additional exceptions.

Yes, someone who truly is interested only in getting the most $$$/game
should just use max-EV.

But never? Suppose you were offered the following choice:

1) 9/6 JoB with a royal jackpot that gives 105% ER, but you are
only allowed to play 1000 rounds, after which you are banished
from the casino forever.

2) 9/6 JoB with a royal jackpot that gives 103% ER, but you are only
allowed to play until you hit a royal flush, after which you are banished
from the casino forever.

3) 9/6 JoB with a royal jackpot that gives 101% ER, no limit on how
long you can play or how many jackpots you can claim.

If you would choose 2) or 3), then $$$/game isn't all that matters to you.

Now, what if 1) was your only option. A min-cost strategy would maximize
the average number of dollars you could extract from the casino, but would
require you to play longer. Would you still play max-EV?

How about if case 2) was your only option? There, using a min_cost_royal
strategy gives the most dollars for this limited opportunity, but requires you
to play longer.

This is not unlike deciding between two different job offers. Most jobs have
benefits of some kind in addition to wages. Surely you consider more than
$$$/hr when evaluating a job offer.

···

On Thursday 19 February 2004 08:56 am, rgmustain wrote:

Steve, I think your 3 examples sum up the different approaches (max-
EV, min-risk, min-cost) quite well. I, for one, would never have any
interest in 2 and 3. So, I think you're saying a max-EV strategy
would be best for me?

"jimnkelli" <jbecker11@c...> wrote:
> there is lots of talk about ROR and limited bankrolls....
> maybe because I am not from Vegas, but I only know of 1 person who
> plays VP on a properly funded bankroll, and it isnt me.
> I am what I consider "in the middle" in that I do have a bankroll
> set aside for VP and it could very well be bankrupted, but if that
> did happen, I would just create another bankroll and keep on going.
> So ROR isnt the greatest factor.

But doesn't this mean that you *do* have a properly funded bankroll?
If you can just create another bankroll when your initial bankroll
disappears, then you haven't gone bankrupt.

It's that way for me, so although ROR discussions are theoretically
interesting, they have little to do with how I actually play. I may
go to Vegas with $1000 cash & play quarter single-line FPDW or triple-
line JOB or NSUD with cashback, or similar, & maybe sometimes the
cash will disappear, & I have to go to the ATM to reload.

Using a min-risk strategy minimizes the probability that you would need
to go to the ATM. For some (not necessarily you) there is value in
not needing to relaod.

I'm playing at a level where I have extremely high confidence that a
losing streak will never wipe out my checking account, & that my
results over time will have minimal effect on my life bankroll. I
make efforts to maximize my EV because it's fun for me in a math geek
way, & because as I make some small profits over time, I feel
psychologically more comfortable spending them on frivolous things
than I would money I'd "earned," so that's fun. But Risk Of Ruin
hardly enters into it.

That's fine. For some players, avoiding a reload is more rewarding
than maximizing how quickly you win. One can still play "low risk"
even if ruin has been eliminated from the equation.

Now, if you ever play with a particular "frivolous thing" as a goal
(as in "I'm going to take $500 to Vegas and turn it into enough to
buy a new laptop computer") then min-risk gives the best chance
at success. In other words, min-risk is also maximum probability of
success. If you view the entire trip as a single wager of $500 that
either returns nothing or a laptop computer, then using a min-risk
playing strategy gives the best chance of winning the laptop.

Since some of the attraction is from a math geek perspective, you
might want to consider min-risk. It is more mathematically intense.

···

On Thursday 19 February 2004 12:42 pm, Stuart wrote:

> Steve, I think your 3 examples sum up the different approaches

(max-

> EV, min-risk, min-cost) quite well. I, for one, would never have

any

> interest in 2 and 3. So, I think you're saying a max-EV strategy
> would be best for me?

Yes, someone who truly is interested only in getting the most

$$$/game

should just use max-EV.

But never? Suppose you were offered the following choice:

1) 9/6 JoB with a royal jackpot that gives 105% ER, but you are
only allowed to play 1000 rounds, after which you are banished
from the casino forever.

2) 9/6 JoB with a royal jackpot that gives 103% ER, but you are

only

allowed to play until you hit a royal flush, after which you are

banished

from the casino forever.

3) 9/6 JoB with a royal jackpot that gives 101% ER, no limit on how
long you can play or how many jackpots you can claim.

If you would choose 2) or 3), then $$$/game isn't all that matters

to you.

Now, what if 1) was your only option. A min-cost strategy would

maximize

the average number of dollars you could extract from the casino,

but would

require you to play longer. Would you still play max-EV?

How about if case 2) was your only option? There, using a

min_cost_royal

strategy gives the most dollars for this limited opportunity, but

requires you

to play longer.

This is not unlike deciding between two different job offers. Most

jobs have

benefits of some kind in addition to wages. Surely you consider

more than

$$$/hr when evaluating a job offer.

Steve, clearly your first two options are simply mind games. They
would not be profitable for a casino and therefore would never
happen. So, until I see a REAL example that reasonably applies to my
play then it appears max-EV is still my best approach.

By the way, I have no problem with mind games because they do
generate discussion that often leads to a real life solution. So, I'm
in no way trying to stifle the discussion.

Dick

Dick

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, Steve Jacobs <jacobs@x> wrote:

On Thursday 19 February 2004 08:56 am, rgmustain wrote:

Steve Jacobs wrote:

> Has anyone ever published a min risk, or a min hands between royal
> strategy or anyothers besides max ER?

Thanks for asking. Here's the min-risk strategy of 9/6 JoB:

      Jacks or Better 8/5

I presume that the above header is incorrect where it indicates "8/5", and that the data in the table and strategy chart which followed was actually for "9/6", ... correct? The other table for min_cost_royal strategy does indicate "9/6".

snipped data and a very good illustration and information. Thanks, Steve.

I'll start with a couple of questions:
1. What do you mean by "cost", as in ... "cost: 0.9999999999989" ... at the bottom of the min-risk distribution table?
2. What is the actual ER for each of the two strategies you gave? I know how to derive them from the data in your tables, but if you already made the calculations, which I presume you have, then you can save me the time and trouble, and possible error, in calculating them myself.

I thought that the min-risk strategy might be a variable one that changes as the goal and initial bankroll vary. Perhaps that was just an assumption on my part due to the percentages of 'Risk of Ruin' itself changing as changes are made to the stake and goal (the 'retire at' value in Jeff Lotspiech's calculator). Obviously, it would be better if the strategy does not vary, since that would make it a whole lot simpler to learn. Since you did not indicate a particular stake or goal, I will assume that the strategy is actually independent of either of them and therefore remains the same, with only the resulting RoR percentiles varying; if I'm wrong, please advise what stake and goal were used for the example you posted.

Now, were your adjustments for your virtual paytable obtained through trial and error, or by a precise mathematical method used to derive them -- similar to my approach to calculate exact adjustments for MultiStrike ( http://www.velek.com/ms )? If your min-risk strategy is indeed independent of how many hands will be played, then I think this is essentially along the same lines as a concept that I had been experimenting with last year, but using trial and error because I couldn't figure out how to come up with any sort of an equation that would include so many variables (each value in a paytable being a variable). I just played around in WinPoker, reducing the values of Royals first, and later, combinations of both Royals and STFL's -- figuring that those hands are the least frequent. I used Excel spreadsheets (lost all that data when my hard drive crashed in the fall), but I recall that I was able to increase my return for the more common hands at only a slightly higher cost from the Royal/STFLs. I thought this would provide a solution to helping my bankroll last a bit longer, but I'd sure like to know how to get a precise answer without having to spend hours and hours of trial and error for only a very rough answer. Anyway, I stopped working on it even before my computer crash, once I became convinced of full-coin play which changed my point of view quite a bit; now I've been playing full-coin almost exclusively (no need to discuss my exceptions). But since I am a rec player and may never accumulate the amount of play to ever really see long-term results, and since I'm very interested in stretching my stake (especially now that I'm playing full-coin), I think that maybe min-RoR is actually the way I ought to _personally_ play. It might not be for everyone -- especially pros -- but I'm interested.

I appreciate all the time you have spent on this, Steve. I do have what I hope will be a final question or two in this thread, but which will appear in my reply to another of your posts in this thread. I hope you'll take the time to answer.

Thanks again.

Bill Velek

···

On Thursday 19 February 2004 08:14 pm, deuceswild1000 wrote:

> Has anyone ever published a min risk, or a min hands between

royal

> strategy or anyothers besides max ER?

Thanks for asking. Here's the min-risk strategy of 9/6 JoB:

Steve that was great.

Per chance anything on deuceswild or NSUD?

Anyway, thanks

DWK

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, Steve Jacobs <jacobs@x> wrote:

On Thursday 19 February 2004 08:14 pm, deuceswild1000 wrote:

Harry, I marked this post to come back and reply and then almost forgot to do it; I don't want you to think that I'm ignoring your posts. Sorry for the delay.

Harry Porter wrote:

Bill Velek wrote:
> But I think it is another matter altogether to suggest that the
> max-ER strategy is not accurate for what it intends to do --
> maximize profits in a positive game, or minimize losses in a
> negative game

I'm side-stepping the broader "Double Down" discussion. From my
perspective, it runs far afield of what is a practical consideration
for most players.

I was initially inclined to agree with you, mostly because I didn't think there was a way to practice the altered strategy (and I'm still skeptical about that, but will reserve final judgment until I obtain a final answer from Steve). However, I can honestly see where some people might actually prefer a min-RoR strategy, if the sacrifice in ER is not too much for the benefit of transferring more ER to the bottom of the distribution table. Take, for example, JoB-9/6; in past discussions many of us, including you as I recall, have indicated that, as a rule of thumb, we base our session stakes and/or expected _session_ outcomes to be anywhere from perhaps 90% (an almost worse case scenario) to maybe 96% (pretty darn optimistic). But in any event, those figures are substantially below the long-term ER because they are based on NOT hitting either a Royal or STFL during that session, and usually allow for something less than average distribution of Quads. But let's just take the Royal/STFL's: -- which together account for over 2.5% out of our 99.5% ER, and which therefore immediately reduce what we realistically expect during a _session_ down to 97%. You know I like to take extremes to illustrate my point, so please bear with me. If it were somehow possible, in a fantasy world, to alter strategy is such a way as to completely eliminate the long-term return from Royals and STFL's and transfer even just 80% of their normal contribution to ER down to the lower levels of the distribution table, I think I would gladly switch strategies. In other words, I would gladly exchange the 2.5% at the top of the table for only 2.0% at the bottom of the table. The new long-term ER would only be 99.0% instead of 99.5%, but the cycle would be about 800 hands instead of about 40,000. Even allowing for less than my share of quads during a session, I would still probably experience maybe a 94% return during a bad session instead of a 92% return. My risk of ruin would be substantially lower, and I'd not doubt go more often and put lots more coin-through which would elevate me to the next level in the slot club, from which I would recapture about .18% -- graduating from a third of a percent to a half of a percent -- and no doubt would get higher bounce back, as well. This course would, naturally, might seem to guarantee that I would lose, long-term, although I really think that with cash-back and bounce-back, it would probably even out to a break-even return -- but I would be having a great time, getting free meals and lodging, and occasional gifts -- all for free.

But leaving the fantasy world, we are probably speaking about more modest changes, and I would need to weigh that against the ultimate cost and the inconvenience of having to learn a different strategy. For example, if min-RoR costs me .5 percent at the top, but only transfers .4 to the bottom, is it really worth it? Not to me, unless it happens to also result in a much easier strategy with less penalty-card situations, etc. Even a much more favorable cost/benefit ratio, by itself, isn't going to be worth pursuing if it doesn't include enough of a difference to justify learning a new strategy; for example, I probably wouldn't be interested if I could sacrifice just .2% at the top to get back .19% at the bottom. On the other hand, if the cost/effect ratio was more favorable and significant enough to, it would be worth learning a whole new strategy. So there is really a lot to be considered here, and I hope we can find out from Steve what sort of figures that we are talking about. Steve, if you read this, I know that I can take some of the figures from the tables you have already provided, and replace your virtual paytable with the real one, and then compute the percentage of ER contributed by each hand, etc., but I assume, once again, that you have already done that work and might be willing to post it. It would be appreciated; thanks.

But I wanted to touch on your comment above, Bill. Max-ER strategy
doesn't translate to maximizing expected profits (other than for a
single played hand).

Given a fixed bankroll (mind you, one that is considered ample, not
"limited") which when exausted will translate to the end of play, then
clearly ROR and ER both (not ER alone) must be considered in
determining what would maximize expected profit.

Expected profit = Expected win per play x Expected number of plays.

If, for a given strategy the ROR is lower than the max-ER stratgy, the
"Exp no. of plays" will be larger. Thus the lower ROR strategy, with
a smaller "Exp win per play" but higher "Exp no. of plays", can
potentially produce a higher Expected profit than a max-ER strat.

snip

This is true, on average, for short-term play (individual visits), but not for long-term play (our one session in life). It is the short-term 'per visit' aspect that caused me to also look into this myself last year, and is the only reason that I am still interested. But long-term, you can never get back more from the additional extended play resulting from altered strategy, than the amount of ER that you are sacrificing by altering your strategy in the first place; otherwise, then the new altered strategy is, in fact, the new max-ER strategy. I'm not sure whether we are now in agreement on that or not.

Now I think I'll take a break and till my garden so I can try to get my peas planted.

Bill Velek

Harry Porter wrote:

Expected profit = Expected win per play x Expected number of plays.

If, for a given strategy, the ROR is lower than the max-ER stratgy
then the "Exp no. of plays" will be larger. Thus the lower ROR
strategy, with a smaller "Exp win per play" but higher "Exp no. of
plays", can potentially produce a higher Expected profit than a
max-ER strat.

Bill Velek replied:

This is true, on average, for short-term play (individual visits), but
not for long-term play (our one session in life).

So, you think that when it comes to long-term profit expectation it's
not relevant that SOME OF US die (ruin) earlier than others due to
play/strategy choices, and instead max-ER is simply "king"?

- H.

an example: 9/6 job +1% cashback

max ER strategy:
er=99.54%, var=19.5, 10%ror bankroll=3628bets
advantage = 0.54%
bankroll growth/hour = 0.54% x 600bets/hour / bankroll = 0.089%/hour
hours to double bankroll = 1124

max Bankroll Growth strategy:
one change: hold 4 flush cards instead of 3 royal cards
er=99.52%, var=17.5, 10%ror bankroll=3414bets
advantage = 0.52%
bankroll growth/hour = 0.52% x 600bets/hour / bankroll = 0.091%/hour
hours to double bankroll = 1099

note: bankroll here is defined as money at risk, as it should be

<<One can also change strategies depending on the situation.>>

To my surprise, I have followed this long thread with interest, understanding most of the general concepts and agreeing with most of them. However, I am worried that newbies - or even experienced VP players - will take a quote like Steve's above as an excuse to justify going to (or back to) the human wish to deviate from the max ER strategy because they "want to hit a royal badly" or they have other "mad" desires. They have every "right" to their personal goals and personal strategy changes but most of them lead to financial disaster because the math just doesn't support them.
I may have asked this before, Steve, and I forgot your answer - but I think it is wise to give a warning to people who may use this thread to justify strategies that are not based on sound math. For example, people who talk about going up in denomination when they are losing so they can have more winning short-term sessions. You wouldn't say this is okay if that is their personal goal, would you, without pointing out the fact that the math shows they will lose more dollars in their few losing sessions than they won as a total in all their winning sessions? Aren't there some goals that are "impossible" to reach because of the math?

I think it is important to inject once in a while that these "other" strategies you are referring to are still based on the math, albeit complex math calculations that most of us are incapable of doing or even understanding fully. What you are talking about are strategies that have been VERY carefully thought out using sound math principles but, more importantly, are for very specific situations and goals that most gamblers do not have.

I see the problem like this: most people who say that they never plan to play long enough to get to the long term want a short-term "modified" strategy that will allow them to play longer each session but still want to win most of the time. You can't have it both ways. Max ER strategy takes extreme patience that many gamblers just don't have so they are always looking for an easier magic bullet.

I'm not saying this thread doesn't belong on this forum. It does. But most of you who were lost a thousand posts ago shouldn't feel guilty - or shouldn't feel like you missed some magic bullet that would make you win more. There is no "other" better strategy for those who want to travel toward the goal of making more money (or losing less) and have the patience to keep the faith in Max ER. Instead of looking for magic bullet strategies, most people would make more money if they worked on their self-discipline to play only better pay schedules, searched harder for good promotions, and practiced more with their VP software to be more accurate on the Max ER strategies that are the best in most circumstances!!!!!!

···

________________________________________
Jean $¢ott - Go to http://www.FrugalGambler.biz
for VP software and strategy cards; "frugal" books;
and the NEW "Tax Help for the Frugal Gambler."

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

After a little snipping of Jean's message below, to keep the length of this=

message short, I want to say that I can only agree wholeheartedly with Jean=
.
My personal goal (and I think that most people's VP goal) is to have the
maximum amount of money, anytime and every time that one chooses to look
at the amount of money that has been set aside specifically for this past-t=
ime.
For this, the Max ER strategy is the only one that can possibly work, accor=
ding
to all of the rules of mathematics. That amount of money will be more or l=
ess,
any time we look at it. But, with the MAX ER strategy, it will always be t=
he
most it can be, aside from random fluctuations about which we are helpless =
to
do anything.

.....bl

There is no "other" better strategy for those who want to travel toward the=
goal
of making more money (or losing less) and have the patience to keep the fai=
th
in Max ER. Instead of looking for magic bullet strategies, most people wou=
ld
make more money if they worked on their self-discipline to play only better=

pay schedules, searched harder for good promotions, and practiced more
with their VP software to be more accurate on the Max ER strategies that ar=
e
the best in most circumstances!!!!!!

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "Jean Scott" <QueenofComps@f...> wrote:

________________________________________
Jean $¢ott - Go to http://www.FrugalGambler.biz
for VP software and strategy cards; "frugal" books;
and the NEW "Tax Help for the Frugal Gambler."

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Steve Jacobs wrote:
> > Has anyone ever published a min risk, or a min hands between royal
> > strategy or anyothers besides max ER?
>
> Thanks for asking. Here's the min-risk strategy of 9/6 JoB:
>
> Jacks or Better 8/5

I presume that the above header is incorrect where it indicates "8/5",
and that the data in the table and strategy chart which followed was
actually for "9/6", ... correct? The other table for min_cost_royal
strategy does indicate "9/6".

Indeed, the header is incorrect. The strategy is for 9/6 JoB.

snipped data and a very good illustration and information. Thanks, Steve.

You're welcome.

I'll start with a couple of questions:
1. What do you mean by "cost", as in ... "cost: 0.9999999999989" ... at
the bottom of the min-risk distribution table?

That number is meaningless when virtual payoffs are being used.

I define cost as the number of units "paid" by losses, divided by the
number of units "bought" as winnings. For 9/6, the max-EV strategy
has a cost of 1.008432571589, meaning that on average each units you
receive back from the machine comes in exchange for 1.008432571589
units that you fed into the machine.

For 9/6 JoB, the game is so close to breakeven that the min-cost strategy
is identical to the max-EV strategy. But, for 8/5 JoB, max-EV has a cost
of 1.041733 while min-cost reduces this value to 1.0417056. These
strategies are only a tiny bit different. The min-risk 8/6 JoB strategy has
a cost of 1.042609.

2. What is the actual ER for each of the two strategies you gave? I
know how to derive them from the data in your tables, but if you already
made the calculations, which I presume you have, then you can save me
the time and trouble, and possible error, in calculating them myself.

The min-cost strategy has an ER of 99.54390436%, same as max-EV.

The min-risk strategy has an ER of 99.53515116%, only 0.009%
different than the max-EV strategy.

One thing worth noting here is that the differences between the strategies
become more pronounced as game EV strays further away from a
breakeven game. If there were a real game that just happened to have
an ER of exactly 100.00000% then the max-EV, min-cost and min-risk
strategies would all be identical. As a result, if one strategy is favorable
to the player then the others will be as well, they are simply favorable
in different ways.

For 8/5 JoB the differences are more noticeable, since it is not as close
to breakeven.

I thought that the min-risk strategy might be a variable one that
changes as the goal and initial bankroll vary. Perhaps that was just an
assumption on my part due to the percentages of 'Risk of Ruin' itself
changing as changes are made to the stake and goal (the 'retire at'
value in Jeff Lotspiech's calculator). Obviously, it would be better if
the strategy does not vary, since that would make it a whole lot simpler
to learn. Since you did not indicate a particular stake or goal, I will
assume that the strategy is actually independent of either of them and
therefore remains the same, with only the resulting RoR percentiles
varying; if I'm wrong, please advise what stake and goal were used for
the example you posted.

The precise answer is a little complicated. The min-risk strategy is
almost independent of stake and goal, and whenever the goal is
"far enough" from the original stake, then the difference is probably
small enough to ignore. Technically, when the distance to the goal
is less than a royal flush away, you could reduce the risk slightly
by treating the royal payoff as if it was only barely large enough to
reach the goal, and alter the strategy accordingly.

Now, were your adjustments for your virtual paytable obtained through
trial and error, or by a precise mathematical method used to derive them
-- similar to my approach to calculate exact adjustments for MultiStrike
( http://www.velek.com/ms )?

That depends on what you mean by "trial and error". For risk in
particular, there is no "closed form" solution that allows you to simply
compute the virtual payoffs directly, and then plug them into a VP
program to compute the strategy. Instead, you have to iterate through
the process a few times to converge on the exact solution. I described
this some in a post this morning, so perhaps you've already seen that.

If your min-risk strategy is indeed
independent of how many hands will be played, then I think this is
essentially along the same lines as a concept that I had been
experimenting with last year, but using trial and error because I
couldn't figure out how to come up with any sort of an equation that
would include so many variables (each value in a paytable being a
variable). I just played around in WinPoker, reducing the values of
Royals first, and later, combinations of both Royals and STFL's --
figuring that those hands are the least frequent. I used Excel
spreadsheets (lost all that data when my hard drive crashed in the
fall), but I recall that I was able to increase my return for the more
common hands at only a slightly higher cost from the Royal/STFLs. I
thought this would provide a solution to helping my bankroll last a bit
longer, but I'd sure like to know how to get a precise answer without
having to spend hours and hours of trial and error for only a very rough
answer.

It sounds like you were trying to do something similar to min_cost_royal,
but lumping royals and STFL's both together. The question then is how
to "weight" the relative importance of royals vs STFL's.

I suspect that for any reasonable weighting, you'd end up with a
strategy that is very close to min_cost_royal, which is already very
close to min-risk.

Anyway, I stopped working on it even before my computer crash,
once I became convinced of full-coin play which changed my point of view
quite a bit; now I've been playing full-coin almost exclusively (no need
to discuss my exceptions). But since I am a rec player and may never
accumulate the amount of play to ever really see long-term results, and
since I'm very interested in stretching my stake (especially now that
I'm playing full-coin), I think that maybe min-RoR is actually the way I
ought to _personally_ play. It might not be for everyone -- especially
pros -- but I'm interested.

Aha, a convert. Welcome to the Church of VP Blasphemy :wink:

I appreciate all the time you have spent on this, Steve. I do have what
I hope will be a final question or two in this thread, but which will
appear in my reply to another of your posts in this thread. I hope
you'll take the time to answer.

I'm trying to answer all the posts that I can. I've probably missed a couple
after running out of time, so if _anyone_ asked a question that I haven't
covered then please ask again and I'll try to answer.

This has been a great thread, and I appreciate all the feedback from
everyone who has participated.

···

On Friday 20 February 2004 09:56 am, Bill Velek wrote:

> On Thursday 19 February 2004 08:14 pm, deuceswild1000 wrote:

> > Has anyone ever published a min risk, or a min hands between

royal

> > strategy or anyothers besides max ER?
>
> Thanks for asking. Here's the min-risk strategy of 9/6 JoB:

Steve that was great.

Thanks!

Per chance anything on deuceswild or NSUD?

My VP program doesn't handle wild cards, and I don't own any
commercial VP programs, so I'm afraid I can't help. Perhaps
Bill or Harry or someone else will be interested enough to learn
how to apply my approach to some wild card games.

Anyway, thanks

You're welcome.

···

On Friday 20 February 2004 12:27 pm, deuceswild1000 wrote:

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, Steve Jacobs <jacobs@x> wrote:
> On Thursday 19 February 2004 08:14 pm, deuceswild1000 wrote:

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "bornloser1537" <bornloser1537@y...>
wrote:

But, with the MAX ER strategy, it will always be the
most it can be, aside from random fluctuations about which we are
helpless to do anything.

But we can do something about the "random fluctuations." We can
devise a strategy with a reduced variance.

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "Jean Scott" <QueenofComps@f...>

wrote:

There is no "other" better strategy for those who want to travel
toward the goal of making more money (or losing less) and have
the patience to keep the faith in Max ER.

I disagree. Max ER is a good strategy, but not always the best. It
can be modified to make it better, Dan Paymar did it to deuces wild
when he suggested keeping all triple deuce 5-kinds, even Bob Dancer
recommended the same deviation from Max ER strategy though for
different reasons.

For those who don't know, here's the play:

full pay deuces wild: 222XX where X is any card 3-9
Max ER: just keep the deuces (15.057 vs. 15)
Paymar: keep the 5-kind, for bankroll reasons
Dancer: keep the 5-kind, to avoid deuces hand-pay/coin-fill delay
Me: keep the 5-kind, increased variance of just holding the deuces
doesn't justify the slight gain in ER

But we can do something about the "random fluctuations." We can
devise a strategy with a reduced variance.

> --- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "Jean Scott" <QueenofComps@f...>
wrote:
> There is no "other" better strategy for those who want to travel
> toward the goal of making more money (or losing less) and have
> the patience to keep the faith in Max ER.

I disagree. Max ER is a good strategy, but not always the best. It
can be modified to make it better, Dan Paymar did it to deuces wild
when he suggested keeping all triple deuce 5-kinds, even Bob Dancer
recommended the same deviation from Max ER strategy though for
different reasons.

Me: keep the 5-kind, increased variance of just holding the deuces
doesn't justify the slight gain in ER

*** I'd certainly like to see a list tabulated of how to vary from
Max ER to conserve bankroll, since I am generally short-bankrolled,
and I also know I won't reach the long-term anytime.***

Dave

Dave wrote:

*** I'd certainly like to see a list tabulated of how to vary from
Max ER to conserve bankroll, since I am generally short-bankrolled,
and I also know I won't reach the long-term anytime.***

Most such strategy changes are unlikely to change game bankroll
requirements sufficiently to make a game appreciably more "playable"
for someone who doesn't have the bankroll to play Max-ER strategy.

As far as reaching the "long term": The strategy changes cited so far
involve hands with a relatively frequent occurance. Moderately active
players have every expectation of closely achieving long term expected
results for these hands.

The very extended timeframe typically cited for achieving expected
game returns is mostly driven by the very infrequent high-paying hands
such as a RF or, in DDB, quad Aces with a kicker.

Players who deviate from Max-ER strategy for holds involving potential
frequently occurring hands, strictly on the basis of a player's
perception that they're unlikely to achieve long-term results, do so
at a very reliable cost over the course of their actual play.

- Harry

(sorry for the complex wording ... it's early and my mind's not 100%
engaged yet :slight_smile: