Imagine a tour where your first rest stop is a portapotty without any paper.
Your second stop is sitting on a rock to pee through your bathing suit.
Your third stop is 6 hours later -- hold it in.... Imagine being soaked
constantly with water for at least an hour, first 45 degree water, then 70 degree
in blowing win - your body becomes chilled and you are close to
hypothermia. You finally reach the shore, but no one from the tour has a blanket for
your or asks how you are - they put you on a bus for a 2 1/2 hour trip to your
hotel, where you sit in your wet clothes until you get back. Imagine
fantastic views followed by some fear that you may never reach home again, or if you
do, you'll get pneumonia first.
Sounds like a tour to exotic lands in a third world country, doesn't it?
Nope. It's called a One Day White Water Rafting Adventure Tour from Las
Vegas to the Grand Canyon.
It was both the best tour I've ever been on, and also the worst.
This can be a great tour. But it is definitely for the adventurous, since
the tour involves climbing on loose (and sometimes slippery rocks), getting
thoroughly doused with 45 degree Colorado River water, sitting for hours in the
direct sun, without shade, experiencing hot weather (depending on when you
go, it may be more or less hot than we experienced -- but remember, if you go
during cooler weather, the cold water will seem worse when it hits you and
you will take longer to dry out), and having few and primitive bathroom
facilities.
As you'll see bekiw, we had an abnormally long tour, with a bad last 2-5
hours that many people will not experience.
The views are spectacular, much of the trip is fun, and it can be great.
But it can also be challenging or even health-threatening.
The trip, run by Scenic Airlines and the Hualapai Indians, costs about $599.
The good news is that I received a comp trip from the Las Vegas Hilton.
We had to board a bus at 4:35 a.m. - a time so early that at least one
participant stayed up all night gambling and then boarded the bus. I knew that
the day would be exhausting, so I got plenty of sleep beforehand. We were
taken to the North Las Vegas airport. We found some confusion as we waited for
our flight aboard a small two-propeller craft with large windows.
The flight to Arizona may have been the best part of the trip - the views of
the Grand Canyon were fantastic. You really get a feel for how large the
canyon is, and how spectacular. Having seen this, I definitely would recommend
spending the bucks to take a flight over the canyon, rather than a bus trip
to the edge to see the view. This was just spectacular.
We now entered the care of the Hualapai Indians, who ran the whitewater
portion of the trip. We found a little more confusion as we made our final pit
stop in civilization and boarded a school bus for a hour-long ride to the
bottom of the Grand Canyon. The waivers we'd signed back at the airport hadn't
been faxed in, so we filled out and signed them again. You have to sign a long
waiver, which basically says that no matter what happens to you, you can't
sue anyone.
The reason for this became apparent when we reached the pontoon boats at the
river. It also became apparent that this trip is only for the physically
fit and adventurous. Getting on the pontoon boats can be awkward, even for the
fit, and I almost couldn't climb onboard. If the boats had been fitted with
a short ladder, they would have been easy to board, but they weren't. You
have to step on slippery rocks and pull yourself up, which I as an overweight,
58-year old found severely challenging. Anyone with physical disabilities
could have problems.
I forgot to mention that there was more confusion at the "dock" (rocks on
the shore), where you had to get your lifejacket and store items you brought in
watertight containers. You also got your last chance at a bathroom before
getting onboard the pontoon boat (which has no facilities) -- here was the
portapotty without paper. By the end of the day I remember it with loving
thought.
We didn't get much direction on how to put on lifejackets or put items in
the watertight containers, but managed.
Then we clambered down the rocky (note wet rocks) shore to the pontoon
boats. I had a couple of moments where I didn't think I would be able to get
onboard the boats, but with help from a couple of people and standing on the
rocks, I got onboard. I was sure I could get off, but I wasn't sure I would be
able to remount if the boat docked in another area without rocks. This is a
8-10 person pontoon boat. We had 7 people and a boatman.
Then we headed for the rapids. This was the fun part, as we were doused
repeatedly with freezing cold water, but were quickly able to warm up in the hot
day. It was about 90-100 degrees on this bright, but with a few helpful
clouds, day.
We stopped for our first stop on a rocky shore, with people able to take a
walk up to see a lovely waterfall. How much you enjoyed this stop, depended
on your experience. Some people had a great time hiking up to the waterfall,
where they were able to climb up rope ladders. Other people didn't have such
a good time, if they slipped on the wet rocks at the shore, or on the
slippery/loose rocks later on. Some people arrived back at the boats with
bruises/cuts. Fortunately no one broke any bones (this trip).
Since I had grave doubts about being able to reboard the boat if I got off
it, I stayed aboard and enjoyed the views. I was able to retrieve a camera
from a waterproof "ammo box" and take some photos. The hot sun beat down and I
desperately wanted to drink a lot of water or soda (they provided a lot of
drinks), but I didn't know how far the next rest stop would be, so I didn't
drink (much). Not drinking fluid on a hot day became the first major
annoyance, but it turned out that I made a correct decision.
When people returned, they were given snacks - stuff like peanuts and
cookies - but they also would make you thirsty, so I had only a bite.
We continued on through some more rapids. Some of them are #4 and up to #7
in strength. It is a real adventure, and fun.
We finally stopped for lunch. A sandwich and chips. Rather meager fare for
a somewhat physically demanding trip (even for me, who just sat on the
boat). I asked about "rest facilities" and was told - not here - at the next
stop. I again didn't bother to exit the boat, but most people did to sit on the
sandy shore and eat.
Now we were in the "float" portion of the trip. No more rapids. This meant
no more chance to cool off. Fortunately it was a "cool" day for this area
in the summer. Only about 95 degrees in Vegas on that day, but probably
hotter at the bottom of the canyon. There was no shade on the boat, and with the
sun directly above, it was soon quite hot, and our clothes dried off.
The views of the Grand Canyon were spectacular, and we enjoyed the ride,
though we were quite uncomfortably hot unless a cloud covered the sun.
We finally pulled into the actual "rest stop" - about 3-4 hours from getting
on the boat. This time the boat was beached on sand, and I decided I could
probably pull myself back onto the pontoon and get back on the boat, so I
slid down the pontoon and walked up the beach. Our guide told us - there is a
clear creek for the men, and a outhouse up the beach for the women.
I walked up the beach and saw that you had to climb up a 10 foot high
vertical wall/embankment to get to the area of the outhouse. This climb up a dry,
sandy wall, holding onto a branch, looked somewhat dangerous to me (Some
years ago I walked down a dry, sandy hill, slipped, and broke a leg), so I
decided to head for the creek instead, to find a more "natural" toilet. A few men
had walked that way - I'm not sure if they "facilitated" or not - but I
decided to sit on a rock as my "throne" and wash off with creek water. Not
dignified, but better than slipping on that climb to the outhouse and breaking a
leg. Call me funny that way....
Back to the boat, and fortunately I was able (with help from 2 people) climb
back up to the pontoon boat. I wish I could describe it better, but it is
awkward at best to get on or off, even for the physically fit, and dammed
awkward for a fat, out-of-shape lady!
Note -- nowhere in the brochures or websites about this tour does it
indicate the level of difficulty.
Now came the Bad News that turned our adventurous, but so far great trip
into something of a disaster. There was too much wind, so we couldn't pull into
the helicopter landing site for a ride to the top of the canyon, where we
would go back to the plane, and back to Vegas.
Instead we had to continue down the river on the boat, until we reached Lake
Meade. We were told this would make the 10-12 hour trip, 2 hours longer.
Please note that we were warned that this could happen when we signed the
waiver at the North Vegas airport. What they didn't tell us (and perhaps
couldn't predict or didn't want to mention) was that the extended trip would mean
a 6-hour wait between bathrooms or that the last hour would mean a constant
dousing of water and wind, giving rise to chilling conditions almost to the
point of hypothermia.
At this point we passed another pontoon boat which was having engine power
problems, so we tied up to them, and headed down the river with them in tow.
This of course slowed us down further. Finally that boat's engine seemed to
get better, so we transferred 2 people over to our boat so they would have
less load, and separated. About 2 hours had now passed from the last "rest
stop".
I asked the guide/boatman about stopping for a rest stop, and he indicated
in "20 minutes." Meanwhile we are in the blazing sun, and I'm dying of
thirst, but trying not to drink. We reach the helicopter landing area, the obvious
place to pull in for a rest stop - but for unknown reasons, our nice Indian
guide just passes it by. Soon one of the new people (a woman) is asking
about a "rest stop" - so he offers to pull over to the side of the river - no
portapotty, and actually pretty much nowhere to hide, but she declines. I would
have gotten out and sat in the water to pee, but I was afraid I couldn't get
back on the boat at that spot - so I sat in silent suffering.
We asked how long it would be to the shore - and the guide said "It's a long
way."
We finally reached the end of the canyon, but the Lake was further away.
Onward we boated. The group was pretty silent by now. It was hot and I wasn't
not drinking anything but a few sips of water. We're thinking that maybe
we'd reach the "dock" in 2 hours from passing the helicopter landing, but two
hours pass, and the guide says "It's a long way".
Now we are almost at the lake, and we spot another pontoon boat. This one
was waiting for us, to make sure that the last boat is okay. They have 2
engines, versus our 1, so they take the 2 new passengers back.
We start to get sprayed again with water, as the boat enters a rough area.
We laugh, thinking it is our last rapid. But the sun is going down, and now
it is harder to warm up. We are entering Lake Meade, and the pilot says
something about "whitecaps" and we are going to have more "spraying." He doesn't
really make it clear how much rougher the ride is going to become. We
haven't been wearing life jackets for the "float" portion of the ride. I've put
my watch back on (non-waterproof). Now the water starts splashing over us
more like a #1 or #2 rapids than a gentle, light spray.
We are now thoroughly soaked again, with freezing, cold water. Having no
real warning, I put my non-water-proof watch down into the bra of my bathing
suit. The water keeps soaking us, and with the wind, we get more and more
chilled, even when the boat is in the sun, rather than shade from the hills as it
begins to get lower in the sky.
We are further into the Lake, and we see the other pontoon boat stopping and
everyone putting on lifejackets. We ask if we should too, and our guide is
non-committal, but all of us (except for 1 guy), put on our lifejackets. The
guide tells us to move further back into the boat (this reduces spray, but
doesn't stop it).
Now we head, full speed, across the lake - heading for some bright rock the
guide has pointed out as our final destination. The wind is blowing against
us, the spray in pouring over us constantly. Between the water in my eyes,
on my glasses, and my hat flopping, I can't see much. Thank god, the water is
suddenly much warmer, because we are in the Lake, instead of getting the
45-degree Coloardo. But with the wind, we are still chilled to the bone.
Even the last guy puts on a lifejacket now.
We are constantly bombarded with water. I feel a bit like I'm drowning
while sitting on a boat, as the water keeps hitting me in the face. I'm totally
tense, holding onto the boat (though it isn't rough enough to actually
threaten to throw me overboard, like a rapid -- but I'm still holding on feeling
like it is for dear life). I'm totally chilled, at the verge of shivering.
Due to the wind, we are making very very slow progress across the lake. I'm
wishing we would just stop for a couple of minutes as a respite to the
bombardment of water, but we are already several hours late, and the poor pilot would
like to get home (sometime).
One lady later tells me that it is at this moment it goes through her mind
that we would be stuck in the middle of the lake forever.
For me, my chest is tight, I'm finding I feel I can't breathe, I'm wondering
if I'm having a heart attack, and I'm wondering if the waiver we signed
absolved them of death by hypothermia.
Finally, finally, we reach the shore! We are dazed, shaken, shivering, and
have to get off the boat, awkwardly as usual, and no one is standing there to
help us off.
I'm so thankful to be on the shore, and I can't believe our guide makes this
trip every day (he always takes the boat to this point, even if his
passengers get off to take the helicopter ride), that I tip the guide/boatman. Maybe
he couldn't pull the boat in for a "pit stop" but he did get us to shore.
(Often his hours are from early morning til after midnight.)
I manage to slip off the boat, get handed belongings, put them on a rock,
and a man (another passenger in front of me), helpfully offers a hand to help me
up the rocks to the shore. My glasses are wet and fogged up, I'm shaky and
don't have my "land legs." I take a step, and FLOP, I fall flat on the
rocks. Thankfully - no bones broken. The kindly man helps me up and helps me
over to the shore.
I look around, dazed, one thought in my mind - "Where the hell is the
bathroom!" - It has now been 6 hours since that rock on the shore that had been my
last "pit stop."
A lady was yelling directions for which bus to get into. "Where's the
bathroom?" I ask. "Up the hill - the bus will take you."
We get on the bus and someone says "please turn on the heat." They take us
up the hill, and I've never been so happy to see a facility in my life!
Then the driver tells us - it is 2 1/2 hours till we get back to the Hilton.
We're on the back side of Lake Meade, and it takes us at least 1 hour to
reach Hoover Dam. He kindly tries to stop at a pizza restaurant, because we
are all hungry and dying for hot drink, but the place is out of food due to
Memorial Day Weekend!
Finally we arrive back at the Hilton. It is now about 10 pm. I've been up
since 3:30 a.m. and am starving, exhausted, still chilled, and slightly
bruised. I head for home, to feed my hungry felines and plop into bed.
It was truly an adventure.
Mind you, not everyone had the same experiences I did. Most active folks had
no real problems getting on or off the boat. Some boaters on this trip were
on other boats or sitting in more protected parts of boats, and may not have
been as totally soaked and chilled during the last part of the trip to Lake
Meade as I and most of my companions were, some folks on other boats may have
had more bathroom breaks, or other folks may have found ways to discreetly
urinate during shore stops (or even while sitting on the boat), and thus
weren't so constantly thirsty and needing a rest stop as I was.
···
---------
If you want to go, I recommend several things - bring a plastic coverup
poncho, like they use at Splash Mountain and other amusement parks to keep the
worst of the water off. You will still get soaked, but it won't be as bad.
Wear a swimsuit, so if you have to pee you can do so discreetly through it! Eat
a hearty breakfast and get plenty of rest beforehand. Crazy as it sounds,
bring an umbrella for shade! If you are in less than great physical
condition, ask about "handicapped access" to the boat - perhaps bring your own rope
ladder to climb up the 4-5 feet you need to get on. But make sure you can get
on and off this (or any pontoon boat or raft) before signing on for a trip.
Be prepared for an adventure. Check the weather and do not go on a day with
possible High Wind! (Thus you can take the helicopter to the top of the
cliff). Try to pick a warm day, but not a scorching hot one, with clouds, if
possible.
I'm possibly giving a bad impression of the trip - it really was great, even
with primitive or non-existent bathroom facilities - but our real problem
was due to the high wind and the inability to get taken off by the helicopter.
Had we been able to do so, it would have been great. It was just our last
few hours of extra travel to Lake Meade, and the pounding 1-hour constant
"rapid-like" end ride conditions that made part of the trip hellish.
Would I go again? Strangely, yes, if I knew for sure I could get on and off
that pontoon boat and that I would not have the extra 2-4 hour ride to Lake
Meade.
All in all, it was a true adventure. It was the best tour I've ever been
on, and also the worst.
-Linda
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]