vpFREE2 Forums

visitor to Chicago

In a message dated 10/25/2005 1:59:43 PM Central Daylight Time,
vpFREE@yahoogroups.com writes:
It is a pretty long walk from the Trump Hotel to the casino's, but the
path is covered. Try to get a room on the opposite side of the railroad
track, as trains after midnight will disturb your sleep
There is a small, mini-van shuttle that runs from the front lobby doors to
the valet entrance of the casino complex so you don't HAVE to walk. INSIST on a
room facing the front parking lot (to avoid the train tracks on the rear) and
if you are staying on a weekend night, do not allow them to give you center
tower. There is a banquet room on the main floor center for weddings, reunions
etc. & the music & partying will often go on well past midnight. I stayed there
this past weekend in one of their jacuzzi suites for a special occasion (what
a joke! plaster patched walls & smaller square footage than the standard
room. Furnishings only mildly modern) I had to call down to the desk around 10:30
and ask to be moved away from all the noise. The floor was literally
vibrating. Luckily, there was a comparable room available up on the 4th floor, but the
move was an inconvenience to say the least.
LK

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

We've been going to Vegas to play VP for about 18 months now, low bankroll, mostly just for fun and if we come out ahead of playing the slots like we did in the past, we consider it a good thing. We have been very consistent, mainly just playing 10/7 DB or 9/6 JOB and using very basic strategy charts, nothing too fancy.
  We've had fun and some good trips, some bad, and we both managed to hit our first Royal Flushs on the last trip in April.

   Now, we're headed back to Vegas late this week and are thinking about expanding to perhaps more version of poker and/or advancing to some of the higher levels of strategy cards....and that's where it's getting complicated.

   I've been playing various VP Tutorial software packages, looked at about 10 different "strategy cards" (for both 10/7 and 9/6) and I'm finding that there are a number of differnt opinions on what should be held in a few certain situations. After a few more days of research, I'm so confused, I'm tempted to just go back to my little 9/6 machine at Main Street and play my basic strategy and just enjoy the trip.

   Am I the only one that's been through this?

Fred*

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

TKeep123 wrote:

  We've been going to Vegas to play VP for about 18 months now, low
bankroll, mostly just for fun and if we come out ahead of playing
the slots like we did in the past, we consider it a good thing. We
have been very consistent, mainly just playing 10/7 DB or 9/6 JOB
and using very basic strategy charts, nothing too fancy.
  We've had fun and some good trips, some bad, and we both managed
to hit our first Royal Flushs on the last trip in April.

   Now, we're headed back to Vegas late this week and are thinking
about expanding to perhaps more version of poker and/or advancing to
some of the higher levels of strategy cards....and that's where it's
getting complicated.

   I've been playing various VP Tutorial software packages, looked
at about 10 different "strategy cards" (for both 10/7 and 9/6) and
I'm finding that there are a number of differnt opinions on what
should be held in a few certain situations. After a few more days
of research, I'm so confused, I'm tempted to just go back to my
little 9/6 machine at Main Street and play my basic strategy and
just enjoy the trip.

   Am I the only one that's been through this?

Fred, you have plenty of company -- novice and advanced players alike.

I'm going to read a little between the lines of your post and assume
the likely source of your confusion is related to the impact that
"penalty cards" can have on optimal play strategy.

My definition for a "penalty card" is any discard from your hand that,
were it instead available in the remaining cards for the draw, could
form a winning hand when combined with your held cards. In other
words, by virtue of the fact that you're discarding it, you have fewer
winning hand possibilities. This potentially affects play strategy.

···

--------

An example of this impact is in 10/7 DB. Consider when you're dealt
suited KQx, where x is a low card of the same suit. The "basic"
strategy hold is just the KQ (assuming that the other cards in the
hand don't present a stronger hold, like a pair).

However, if you're considering an "advanced" strategy that takes into
account penalty cards in the hand, the guidance would be to hold all
three cards of KQx in those cases where a fourth card is present that
might form a straight with the KQ.

E.g. - for <Kh Qh 5h 8s 4c>, you would hold the KQ, but for <Kh Qh 5h
9s 4c> you would hold the KQ5. The reasoning is that in the first
hand you have more straight possibilities on the draw then in the
second, where the 9s is no longer available in the draw cards. In
this case, that's sufficient to reduce the value of the KQ hold in the
second hand to the point where going for the flush is more valuable.

--------

The question is whether to play the basic strategy or the advanced
strategy. There's a disagreement about the answer to this question
among some players.

It's to be noted that the difference in overall game expected return
is relatively small, generally well under .01% for most games. In the
case of 9/6 Jacks it's about .001%; for 10/7 DB it's .011%.

Some writers on the subject, most notably Skip Hughes, advise that
most players stick to basic strategy and ignore penalty card
situations. Skip remarks on the fact that the ER that can be gained
via an advanced strategy very likely may be negated many times over if
the distraction of penalty card consideration results in just a
fraction of greater player errors and that, even with perfect play,
the additional time required to consider penalty cards might well
reduce play speed to the point where any hourly advantage from
advanced strategy is cancelled out.

On the other hand, Bob Dancer makes no bones about his sentiment that
serious players will move onto advanced strategy when their
proficiency supports the move. After all, a $1 10/7 DB may be leaving
as much as $.50 an hour on the table if ignoring penalty card
situations entirely. The most frequently occuring penalty card
related holds are pretty simple to master so if you've nailed basic
strategy, why not incorporate a handful of additional rules into your
play.

-------

FWIW, I personally straddle these two positions in my play. Frankly,
given that a 10/7 player risks a loss of 160 bets or more in any given
hour, the consideration of a factor involving 1/10 of a bet in an hour
rates as a pretty low priority for most players. How much to tip a
beverage server is a question of greater economic consequence for a $1
and under player.

Until I have a basic game strategy down fairly pat (for me, that means
that in my winpoker practice my "Return %" -- reported in the "Error
Effect on Total Return" Analysis screen -- is consistently above
99.9%), I don't even bother with penalty considerations. It's a safe
bet that they're going to be a harmful distraction to my play.

But once I achieve that level of accuracy, the simple fact is that I
have game strategy cold but am suffering from the affect of
inattention in my play -- I'm making "dumb" mistakes. I find that the
additional attention I pay to the cards when seeking out penalty card
situations hones my accuracy further and it's a winning situation all
the way around.

I don't sweat every single penalty card situation, in the manner that
is often the focus of Dancer's articles. Instead I concentrate on the
most frequently occuring penalties, which in most games are limited to
a relatively small handful of situations. Winpoker practice quickly
highlights which ones those are.

--------

I personally prefer Winpoker for my tutor practice. I find the look
and feel most comfortable. But, when it comes to master the basic
strategy of a game, it's a real pain in the rear. There's no
effective way to accurately ignore penalty card situations.

Frugal VP is an outstanding product for basic strategy practice (it
also has some exceptional advanced analysis features that I highly
value). Both software products are essential members of my vp
arsenal. Frankly, there are some games I would never dream of
introducing to my wife via winpoker without fearing I'd arrive home
one day to find she'd attempted the "touchscreen" method in holding
cards -- using a hammer.

Having responded in typical fashion with a long-winded reply, I'll
touch on your final statement ... by all means stick to basic strategy
for now -- it's a very prudent move. But don't be afraid to spread
your wings and approach new games. JB play is satisfying, but on its
own it makes for a very bland vp diet.

- Harry

Harry,

     I'm not sure how you did it, but from my rambling and non-detailed original post, you gleamed the exact issues I am wrestling with, and you VERY clearly gave some insight.

     After reading your explanations, it WAS the "penalty" cards that were really confusing me. It was driving me crazy when some times the suggested strategy was to hold the Kh Qh 5H and other times, I was supposedly only to keep the Hh Qh.... Your explanation was perfect, and I also think I'll take your advice and stick with my basic strategy and "expand my wings" to include a few "advanced" moves this trip, but not drive myself crazy playing perfect Advanced play...as you say, until I get better at it, i'd be spending about 2 minutes per had looking over my "cheat sheet", and Im sure I'd still mess up a few.

    Thanks for the advice on the different poker simulation games. I do use WinPoker and yes, it was the "penalty" issues that was confusing me. I've also been playing Video Poker Hunt 2.0, totally free product and seems to be pretty good from a basic standpoint.

     I can guarantee that I'll be saving your reply for future reference, and again, you have my THANKS as I think I'll now be able to once again enjoy this upcoming trip. Honestly, I was so confused, I almost considered just giving up.

You have my gratitude, most people would have just ignored my email, and you not only replied but in great details and I appreciate it.

Fred*

···

-----Original Message-----
From: Harry Porter <harry.porter@verizon.net>
To: vpFREE@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 09:45:40 -0000
Subject: [vpFREE] Re: I am now SO confused! <G>

TKeep123 wrote:

  We've been going to Vegas to play VP for about 18 months now, low
bankroll, mostly just for fun and if we come out ahead of playing
the slots like we did in the past, we consider it a good thing. We
have been very consistent, mainly just playing 10/7 DB or 9/6 JOB
and using very basic strategy charts, nothing too fancy.
  We've had fun and some good trips, some bad, and we both managed
to hit our first Royal Flushs on the last trip in April.

   Now, we're headed back to Vegas late this week and are thinking
about expanding to perhaps more version of poker and/or advancing to
some of the higher levels of strategy cards....and that's where it's
getting complicated.

   I've been playing various VP Tutorial software packages, looked
at about 10 different "strategy cards" (for both 10/7 and 9/6) and
I'm finding that there are a number of differnt opinions on what
should be held in a few certain situations. After a few more days
of research, I'm so confused, I'm tempted to just go back to my
little 9/6 machine at Main Street and play my basic strategy and
just enjoy the trip.

   Am I the only one that's been through this?

Fred, you have plenty of company -- novice and advanced players alike.

I'm going to read a little between the lines of your post and assume
the likely source of your confusion is related to the impact that
"penalty cards" can have on optimal play strategy.

My definition for a "penalty card" is any discard from your hand that,
were it instead available in the remaining cards for the draw, could
form a winning hand when combined with your held cards. In other
words, by virtue of the fact that you're discarding it, you have fewer
winning hand possibilities. This potentially affects play strategy.

--------

An example of this impact is in 10/7 DB. Consider when you're dealt
suited KQx, where x is a low card of the same suit. The "basic"
strategy hold is just the KQ (assuming that the other cards in the
hand don't present a stronger hold, like a pair).

However, if you're considering an "advanced" strategy that takes into
account penalty cards in the hand, the guidance would be to hold all
three cards of KQx in those cases where a fourth card is present that
might form a straight with the KQ.

E.g. - for <Kh Qh 5h 8s 4c>, you would hold the KQ, but for <Kh Qh 5h
9s 4c> you would hold the KQ5. The reasoning is that in the first
hand you have more straight possibilities on the draw then in the
second, where the 9s is no longer available in the draw cards. In
this case, that's sufficient to reduce the value of the KQ hold in the
second hand to the point where going for the flush is more valuable.

--------

The question is whether to play the basic strategy or the advanced
strategy. There's a disagreement about the answer to this question
among some players.

It's to be noted that the difference in overall game expected return
is relatively small, generally well under .01% for most games. In the
case of 9/6 Jacks it's about .001%; for 10/7 DB it's .011%.

Some writers on the subject, most notably Skip Hughes, advise that
most players stick to basic strategy and ignore penalty card
situations. Skip remarks on the fact that the ER that can be gained
via an advanced strategy very likely may be negated many times over if
the distraction of penalty card consideration results in just a
fraction of greater player errors and that, even with perfect play,
the additional time required to consider penalty cards might well
reduce play speed to the point where any hourly advantage from
advanced strategy is cancelled out.

On the other hand, Bob Dancer makes no bones about his sentiment that
serious players will move onto advanced strategy when their
proficiency supports the move. After all, a $1 10/7 DB may be leaving
as much as $.50 an hour on the table if ignoring penalty card
situations entirely. The most frequently occuring penalty card
related holds are pretty simple to master so if you've nailed basic
strategy, why not incorporate a handful of additional rules into your
play.

-------

FWIW, I personally straddle these two positions in my play. Frankly,
given that a 10/7 player risks a loss of 160 bets or more in any given
hour, the consideration of a factor involving 1/10 of a bet in an hour
rates as a pretty low priority for most players. How much to tip a
beverage server is a question of greater economic consequence for a $1
and under player.

Until I have a basic game strategy down fairly pat (for me, that means
that in my winpoker practice my "Return %" -- reported in the "Error
Effect on Total Return" Analysis screen -- is consistently above
99.9%), I don't even bother with penalty considerations. It's a safe
bet that they're going to be a harmful distraction to my play.

But once I achieve that level of accuracy, the simple fact is that I
have game strategy cold but am suffering from the affect of
inattention in my play -- I'm making "dumb" mistakes. I find that the
additional attention I pay to the cards when seeking out penalty card
situations hones my accuracy further and it's a winning situation all
the way around.

I don't sweat every single penalty card situation, in the manner that
is often the focus of Dancer's articles. Instead I concentrate on the
most frequently occuring penalties, which in most games are limited to
a relatively small handful of situations. Winpoker practice quickly
highlights which ones those are.

--------

I personally prefer Winpoker for my tutor practice. I find the look
and feel most comfortable. But, when it comes to master the basic
strategy of a game, it's a real pain in the rear. There's no
effective way to accurately ignore penalty card situations.

Frugal VP is an outstanding product for basic strategy practice (it
also has some exceptional advanced analysis features that I highly
value). Both software products are essential members of my vp
arsenal. Frankly, there are some games I would never dream of
introducing to my wife via winpoker without fearing I'd arrive home
one day to find she'd attempted the "touchscreen" method in holding
cards -- using a hammer.

Having responded in typical fashion with a long-winded reply, I'll
touch on your final statement ... by all means stick to basic strategy
for now -- it's a very prudent move. But don't be afraid to spread
your wings and approach new games. JB play is satisfying, but on its
own it makes for a very bland vp diet.

- Harry

vpFREE Links: http://members.cox.net/vpfree/Links.htm

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Harry wrote:

        My definition for a "penalty card" is any discard from your hand
that,
were it instead available in the remaining cards for the draw, could
form a winning hand when combined with your held cards.

        Harry's explanation was pretty good, except it is more useful
not to insist that penalty cards need to be discards. In 10/7 DB, for
example, consider the following three hands:

        Kh Qs 7h 5h 3c
        Kh Qs 9h 5h 3c
        Kh Qs 9s 5h 3h

        The correct play on the first hand is KQ, the second is K95, and
the third is K53 --- where in the second and third hand the 9 is a
straight penalty to KQ, and that straight penalty lowers the value of KQ
below that of the 3-card flush with one high card. To explain it this
way (which is the way I prefer), it doesn't matter if the 9 is held (as
in the second hand) or discarded (as in the third hand). If your
definition limits penalty cards to those being discarded, then the 9h is
not a straight penalty and I don't know how you explain the second hand.

Bob Dancer

For the best in video poker information, visit www.bobdancer.com
or call 1-800-244-2224 M-F 9-5 Pacific Time.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Bob Dancer wrote:

Harry wrote: My definition for a "penalty card" is any discard from
your hand that, were it instead available in the remaining cards for
the draw, could form a winning hand when combined with your held
cards.

Harry's explanation was pretty good, except it is more useful
not to insist that penalty cards need to be discards. In 10/7 DB,
for example, consider the following three hands:

        Kh Qs 7h 5h 3c
        Kh Qs 9h 5h 3c
        Kh Qs 9s 5h 3h

The correct play on the first hand is KQ, the second is K95,
and the third is K53 --- where in the second and third hand the 9 is
a straight penalty to KQ, and that straight penalty lowers the value
of KQ below that of the 3-card flush with one high card. To explain
it this way (which is the way I prefer), it doesn't matter if the 9
is held (as in the second hand) or discarded (as in the third hand).
If your definition limits penalty cards to those being discarded,
then the 9h is not a straight penalty and I don't know how you
explain the second hand.

I agree that my "definition" is somewhat rough and likely could be
refined.

However, the definition isn't intended to limit "penalty cards to
those being discarded" in all cases. It's a reference to any card
that would be discarded for the hold under consideration -- KQ, in
your examples.

The "9" is a straight penalty when the KQ hold is considered because,
if discarded, the number of straights that can be formed on the draw
are reduced ... and therefore it diminishes the value of the KQ hold,
compared to the presence of a non straight penalty card such as an
"8". It's not necessarily a penalty of any sort when other
alternative holds are being considered -- for example <5h 3h> ... not
exactly a viable hold in DB, but one for other games and a reasonable
example.

I'd suggest the very essence of a penalty card to a prospective hold
is that it's no longer available to form a winning hand ... i.e. it's
being discarded if you proceed with the hold. But again, I'm quite
loathe to contradict you since I'm far more likely the one to be obtuse :wink:

- Harry

What about this definition of a penalty card? Does it cover every possibility?

"When you have a choice between two or more possible holds in one hand, any card that reduces the value of one of those holds is called a penalty card."

If I wanted to explain it further, I would add: "If it reduces the number of ways you could make a straight, it is called a straight penalty card. If it reduces the number of ways you could make a flush, it is called a flush penalty card."

Anyone want to refine or expand this definition?

···

________________________________________
Jean $�ott - http://www.FrugalGambler.biz
  for VP software and strategy cards.
  NEW - Blackjack Strategy Cards +
              Updated Second Edition of
             "The Frugal Gambler."

What about this definition of a penalty card? Does it cover every
possibility?

"When you have a choice between two or more possible holds in one

hand, any

card that reduces the value of one of those holds is called a

penalty

card."

If I wanted to explain it further, I would add: "If it reduces the

number

of ways you could make a straight, it is called a straight penalty

card. If

it reduces the number of ways you could make a flush, it is called

a flush

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "Jean Scott" <QueenofComps@f...> wrote:

penalty card."

Anyone want to refine or expand this definition?

________________________________________
Jean $¢ott - http://www.FrugalGambler.biz
  for VP software and strategy cards.
  NEW - Blackjack Strategy Cards +
              Updated Second Edition of
             "The Frugal Gambler."

---------------------------------------------------------------

Your definition seems to be perfect for those machines that have the
proper Payschedules (mainly from vegas).
For those machines (mainly from Indian casinos) with really bad
Payschedules such as 8/5 DB, 6/5 BP, etc., do we still put into
consideration these penalty cards in our play strategy in general?
(Not that I'll play these short-pay machines.)
If not, it would be nice to see some Notes specifying something
like "This flush penalty card only applies for 10/7 DB and not on an
8/5 DB or something similar.".

Thanks for the info.
Gilbert

In response to my recent post, I received a private reply. I
believe it relevant to the group, so I am repeating it here and
responding to it. I am not crediting the author as it was sent in
private.

     Hand#1: Kh Qs 7h 5h 3c
     Hand#2: Kh Qs 9h 5h 3c
     Hand#3: Kh Qs 9s 5h 3h

Here's my take:
A penalty card is a discard that diminishes you chances of drawing a
secondary hand of a Flush or Straight.

Above, standard strategy would be to hold the K,Q.
Hand#1: 2 Flush Penalty Discards.
Hand#2: 2 Flush Penalty Discards Plus 1 Straight Penalty Discard. (The
9h is a "Twofer")
Hand#3: 2 Flush Penalty Discards Plus 1 Straight Penalty Discard.
Rule: In 10/7DB Dealt 2 High Cards, Hold 3 to a Flush with 3 Penalty
Cards.

     (name withheld for privacy reasons)

I disagree with this approach. Calling the lower hearts "flush
penalties" makes no sense because the alternative hand you're
considering is un UNSUITED KQ. If you were considering holding the K by
itself, then yes the two lower hearts would be flush penalties.

Using the logic presented above, the hand Kh Qs 7h 5h 3s would have
THREE flush penalties (two to the king and 1 to the queen) and so
according to the rule presented, the proper play would be K75. And that
is incorrect.

Bob Dancer

For the best in video poker information, visit www.bobdancer.com
or call 1-800-244-2224 M-F 9-5 Pacific Time.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "Harry Porter" <harry.porter@v...>
wrote:

Bob Dancer wrote:
> Harry wrote: My definition for a "penalty card" is any discard

from

> your hand that, were it instead available in the remaining cards

for

> the draw, could form a winning hand when combined with your held
> cards.
>
>
> Harry's explanation was pretty good, except it is more useful
> not to insist that penalty cards need to be discards. In 10/7 DB,
> for example, consider the following three hands:
>
> Kh Qs 7h 5h 3c
> Kh Qs 9h 5h 3c
> Kh Qs 9s 5h 3h
>
> The correct play on the first hand is KQ, the second is K95,
> and the third is K53 --- where in the second and third hand the 9

is

> a straight penalty to KQ, and that straight penalty lowers the

value

> of KQ below that of the 3-card flush with one high card. To

explain

> it this way (which is the way I prefer), it doesn't matter if the

9

> is held (as in the second hand) or discarded (as in the third

hand).

> If your definition limits penalty cards to those being discarded,
> then the 9h is not a straight penalty and I don't know how you
> explain the second hand.

I agree that my "definition" is somewhat rough and likely could be
refined.

However, the definition isn't intended to limit "penalty cards to
those being discarded" in all cases. It's a reference to any card
that would be discarded for the hold under consideration -- KQ, in
your examples.

The "9" is a straight penalty when the KQ hold is considered

because,

if discarded, the number of straights that can be formed on the draw
are reduced ... and therefore it diminishes the value of the KQ

hold,

compared to the presence of a non straight penalty card such as an
"8". It's not necessarily a penalty of any sort when other
alternative holds are being considered -- for example <5h 3h> ...

not

exactly a viable hold in DB, but one for other games and a

reasonable

example.

I'd suggest the very essence of a penalty card to a prospective hold
is that it's no longer available to form a winning hand ... i.e.

it's

being discarded if you proceed with the hold. But again, I'm quite
loathe to contradict you since I'm far more likely the one to be

obtuse :wink:

- Harry

Harry, I wouldn't be loathe to agree with you. Penalty cards are
exactly as you described.

The one stipuation I would add is that they are not always obvious in
all games. Most straight and flush penalties are obvious, however
there are times that certain cards are penalties to potential draws
that aren't as obvious. This occurs quite frequently in two pair FP-
OEJs.

An example: When comparing a specific hold to throwing away all the
cards( Qc 9c 8d As 4d), the value of the discards may not always be
the same. This is very common in OEJs. If you are discarding clubs
and diamonds (8d 4d above) you diminish the value of the redeal and
the 2SF (qc 9c) hold is correct. If those same cards were hearts or
spades then a complete redeal would be the best.