I was simply trying to supply a list of strategy changes, from FPDW to
NSUDs, using a penalty card free strategy. I was not giving a hand rank table.
Your point that somewhere it should be mentioned, for NSUDs, which hand is
stronger, A-low SF3 (no Deuces) or K-hi RF2, is well taken. That is because it
is not a simple "change" from FPDW strategy, since you don't ever hold the
A-low SF3, as you mentioned. So including a note that SF3, A-low > RF2, K-hi,
would be helpful for someone trying to learn NSUDs.
My list was intended to be as simple a possible, for someone who already
knows FPDW strategy without penalty cards. That is all. Of course you may add
more information, but it would be beyond the scope of the question asked by the
original poster.
And I have never claimed to be a teacher. I have neither the desire, nor the
patience, nor do I wish to be a public figure. I will leave that to you, and
the other "gurus."
Brian
ยทยทยท
=========================================
In a message dated 1/9/2007 8:53:20 PM Pacific Standard Time,
bob.dancer@compdance.com writes:
Brian wrote: Sorry Bob. Your first correction is not one. This play is
the same as in FPDW, and my
list was only for the strategy CHANGES from FPDW to NSUDs. And, on
average,
you don't hold one deuce RF3s with an Ace in FPDW. You do hold them
sometimes,
but ONLY if you are taking penalty cards into consideration.
You're correct on this one. To a degree. You say, correctly,
that RF3 A-hi > 2 alone in NSU, which is a break from FPDW (without
penalty cards). But you don't say where it fits. A more-complete rule
than either of us listed was SF3 0i > RF3 A-hi > SF3 1i > ST4 0i (where
spelling out the components of SF3 0i and SF3 1i like you did --- and I
do on my strategies --- is useful). Even if you're just listing the
changes between the games, listing what comes higher and what comes
lower gives better information.
Brian also wrote: Your second correction assumes that you hold RF2,
K-hi, in FPDW. I believe
that you do not, on average. You do hold them sometimes, but ONLY if you
are
taking penalty cards into consideration. My changes were for a penalty
free
strategy, and it DOES mention holding SF3, A-low over a redraw.
Our disagreement here is similar to what we had above. Your
strategy says that SF3 A-low is better than a redraw (correct) and that
RF2 K-hi is also better than a redraw (also correct), but it does NOT
indicate which of these two is superior to the other. Therefore we need
some rule about the relationship between the two --- and I provided it.
Even if you're looking at the changes from FPDW, in that game SF3 A-low
are NEVER held and RF2 K-hi are SOMETIMES held, so on average RF2 K-hi >
SF3 A-low, although a strict non-penalty-card player may not know this.
For practical purposes, a decent percentage of players who do not mess
with penalty cards in general use the "neither flush nor straight
penalty" rule for RF2 K-hi (which is a reasonable, easy-to-memorize rule
that is mostly correct.)
I wrote too harshly when I said that Brian "neglected to
include" two types of hands. A better statement would have been that I
believe that two of the hands could use some clarification. That makes
the situation a matter of opinion (about which Brian and I disagree at
times) rather than a matter of fact (about which Brian and I seldom
disagree.)
These hands are simply two more examples of the trade off
between how much is "enough information" and how much is "too much".
Every teacher needs to balance these things, and apparently Brian and I
balance them in different places.
Bob Dancer
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]