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Flush Attacks: The Total Package

When I said Flush Attacks are extinct I may have been off the mark.
Maybe there still are spots where the game can be exploited. I know
nothing about what may be found in the South, Midwest, Upper Midwest
and the Northeast.

There used to be Flush Attacks in New Mexico. Maybe they are still
there. I don't know. Isleta had a bank of individuals. They were
the 101.8% version. But one of these machines payed 6 for 1 on
regular flushes. It wasn't listed on the machine. Evidently, it was
a rare chip mistake. That put the game up to 103.2%. The last I
heard, since they couldn't figure out why the game was paying back so
much, they slowed the hand speed down to a crawl.

There were Flush Attacks at Bernalillo, north of Albuquerque, also.

Maybe 3 or four years ago I read a little snippet in Strictly Slots
about Sigma coming out with a modern line of their old games which
they referred to as "Retropokers." Flush Attacks were included. I
was thinking "Goody, Goody, Flush Attacks are coming back." But they
never appeared in Nevada.

I'm doing other things now, so if any of you have a spot for flush
attacks, I don't care. I'm happy for you. And I may as well give
you the Total Package. There are a few more tricks involving Flush
Attacks, and I will explain them in a few posts under this thread.
Good luck.

STAND ALONES VS. LINKED BANKS

Which do I prefer?

It's no contest. I much prefer the stand alones.

On the linked banks you are at the mercy of what others are doing. Is
the bank getting action? What's the ratio of ploppies to hustlers.
How long am I gonna have to wait for lights? Is there any heat today.
You are not running much for total wager, and showing a win at that.
Consequently, you are not valued as a customer.

Give me a place like the Red Lion in Elko used to be, with 8 stand
alones, and two more across the street at Gold Country (owned by the
Red Lion, same card) and I can work out. I had little or no
competition.

I logged in how many flushes I had to make on every play. You make
either 2, 3, or 4. It averaged to 3.1 flushes per play in Elko. I
used that to track where my percentage was at. And to tell how much
action I was running. At Elko I ran about $37,000 a week coin-in.
That got me the RFB. And if my card fell out on every pat flush, full
house, or quad, I was burying up about 4.7%. Throw in the pat
straights and it is a 6% slice.

There is no comparison. I'll take the stand alones every time.

A few more notes on stand alones.

If your theoretical, sweeping stand alone flush attacks, is running
103.8% you have a 2% win without the royal. Royal chances are at
45,000. The next lowest cycles are the Straight Flush,7676, and and
Four Aces, 4546. It doesn't take much of a bankroll to sweep flush
attacks successfully.

The beauty of sweeping flush attacks is you are not taking up much seat
time. About 20 minutes per machine. If you sweep that machine 3 times
a day you are spending only an hour a day on that machine. The house
gets it's ploppie action. Everybody is happy.

Many times I got to observe the actual payback screens when some slot
tech was working on a machine. In the Elko case the machines showed
actual paybacks from 97% to 98%. That's how bad the general public
played the game.

Through multi-thousands of plays my absolute worst downswing was
$1300. But I still never booked a losing month.

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "mickeycrimm" <mickeycrimm@...> wrote:

It doesn't take much of a bankroll to sweep flush
attacks successfully.

Mickey ...try the Reno airport, they have some flush attacks there.

···

----- Original Message ----- From: "mickeycrimm" <mickeycrimm@yahoo.com>
To: <vpFREE@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2008 5:09 PM
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] [vpFREE] Flush Attacks: The Total Package

When I said Flush Attacks are extinct I may have been off the mark. Maybe there still are spots where the game can be exploited. I know nothing about what may be found in the South, Midwest, Upper Midwest and the Northeast.

There used to be Flush Attacks in New Mexico. Maybe they are still there. I don't know. Isleta had a bank of individuals. They were the 101.8% version. But one of these machines payed 6 for 1 on regular flushes. It wasn't listed on the machine. Evidently, it was a rare chip mistake. That put the game up to 103.2%. The last I heard, since they couldn't figure out why the game was paying back so much, they slowed the hand speed down to a crawl.

There were Flush Attacks at Bernalillo, north of Albuquerque, also.

Maybe 3 or four years ago I read a little snippet in Strictly Slots about Sigma coming out with a modern line of their old games which they referred to as "Retropokers." Flush Attacks were included. I was thinking "Goody, Goody, Flush Attacks are coming back." But they never appeared in Nevada.

I'm doing other things now, so if any of you have a spot for flush attacks, I don't care. I'm happy for you. And I may as well give you the Total Package. There are a few more tricks involving Flush Attacks, and I will explain them in a few posts under this thread. Good luck.

------------------------------------

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DIVEBOMBERS

On linked banks, in theory, if you were playing against only ploppies
you could play 5 coins between the lights, but playing much slower than
the ploppies, then speed up in the light, and by outstrategizing your
opponents, come out on the deal.

But you probably wouldn't want to use any kind of flush strategy
between the lights. Even though you are playing slower you are
creating flushes at a higher clip than your opponents, who, if you
sized them up right, are probably creating flushes at around the 90
hand level. Those flushes you make cost money--yours. So you had best
stick to 8/5 double bonus strategy between the lights, then switch to
flush125 in the light.

But this strategy doesn't work if there are vacant machines. Why? In
a nutshell: DIVEBOMBERS

What's a divebomer? That's the guy hiding behind the bank of machines
behind you who is gonna come flying out of the woodwork when the light
triggers. Or the couple of huster's who just happen to be walking by
the bank when the light triggers. They are gonna jump into the game.
At least for that light. I'm guilty of it myself.

I can see it now. Sweeping flush attacks at the Reno Airport in the
post 9/11 world.

Security Officer: "Sir, may I see some identification?" I give him my
I.D. "Mr. Crimm, eh? Mr. Crimm, we have observed that you have been
visiting the airport a few times a day for the past several days. You
are not flying in or out. You just hang around, play a few machines,
and leave. What is your business here, sir?"

"Just playing a little video poker."

"Just playing a little video poker, eh? Mr. Crimm,
if....that's....your....real name. Would you step this way please."

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "tomflush" <tomflush@...> wrote:

Mickey ...try the Reno airport, they have some flush attacks there.

AVOIDING FILLS

I never saw a flush attack that was TITO. If you are just feeding in
bills as you play, cashing out and taking the coins to the change
booth, you are creating alot of fill situations. Because you are
always cashing out something. The least you would cash out is 125
coins. But you are cashing out much, much more alot of times. You
hit quads every 429 hands.

If you are sweeping a couple of times a day you are gonna keep the
hired help real busy. And they can get annoyed at someone who is
creating so many fills.

So you have to do some handfeeding. But how much? When you feed
coins into the machine you need to listen to what is happening
below. If you hear a clanging sound, that is the sound of the coins
bouncing off the side of the hopper---the hopper is very low. If you
hear a sound like coins swishing around in your pocket the hopper is
full and you don't have to do so much handfeeding.

You don't attract so much attention this way.

PROMOTIONS

Even if there is just one stand alone flush attack in a house if there
is a promotion going on you have to analyze itto see if the flush
attack fits the situation.

For instance, say you get a drawing ticket for every 100 coin or 125
coin or better hit. You make a quad every 429 games and a bonus flush
every 220 games. So you will get a drawing ticket every 145 games.

READING THE MACHINES TO GET A SHORT TERM PLAY

This is a linked bank trick, not alot of flush attackers know about it,
and it takes some explaining.

Imagine you are playing on a linked bank. All the other machines are
vacant. No one else is playing. You trigger flush attack mode. If
you look at all the other machines you will see that in the upper half
of the screens they all say "FLUSH ATTACK, next flush gets 125 coin
bonus." The same as your machine.

Then you make a flush. You get payed 125 coins. Now you look at the
upper half of the screens on all the other machines. You will see that
they are totally blank. Just clear blue background.

You pull a quarter out of your pocket and insert it into the machine
beside you. You play one hand and stop. You will now notice that the
upper half of that screen is flashing "Play 5 Coins." The rest of the
machines on the bank will not start flashing "Play 5 Coins" until they
get action. And that's the trick. You can tell if a machine has had
action since the last time the bonus flush got hit.

So you walk into a casino and up to a bank of 14 linked flush attacks
who just happen to all be vacant. You walk up and down the row
checking to see how many machines got played since the last light. You
look in the bottom left corner to see how many coins the last player
was playing on each machine. Half of them show 5-ooin action. The
rest show 1, 2, and 3 coin action.

Conclusion? The next flush is going to turn the light on. That is, if
you are betting 5 coins. But the bank is also giving every indication
that there is 13 or 14 points worth of flush in it. Making one or two
1-coin flushes will probably turn the light on. Which way should you
go? That's up to you.

···

_________________

You walk by the same 14 machine bank a little later. There are 4
players. Two appear to be hustler types and two appear to be ploppie
types. Not a very good game to exploit. But how about a short term
play. Read the other machines to see how much action the bank has had
since the last time the light was on. If most or all are flashig "Play
5 Coins." The light will probably be on in a minute or two. Grab a
seat and play one light.

For just one light it doesn't mean that much. But 20 or 25 shots a
week like this and the money adds up. Good luck.

And Paymar moved to New Mexico - yes, it's all making sense now ...

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "mickeycrimm" <mickeycrimm@...> wrote:

There used to be Flush Attacks in New Mexico.

Flush50 is the strategy used for playing straight through or sweeping
flush attacks. It is predicated on the average flush paying 50 coins.
Using the 101.8% version this is what you would punch into a program to
analyze and get the strategy: RF 800, SF 50, 4 Aces 160, Small Quads,
80, Generic Quads 50, FH 8, FL 10, ST 4, 3K 3, 2P 1, HP 1.

On the linked-bank game Flush125 is the strategy used when the bank is
in Flush Attack Mode. It is predicated on the flush paying 125 coins.
Using the 101.8% version this is what you would punch into a program to
analyze and get the strategy: RF 800, SF 50, 4 Aces 160, Small Quads,
80, Generic Quads 50, FH 8, FL 25, ST 4, 3K 3, 2P 1, HP 1.

Flush 125 is ALSO the strategy you would use on a STAND ALONE if you
found a Motel 6. OR IS IT? Remember, a Motel 6 is where someone
triggered the machine into flush attack mode then walked off. So it
would seem that on these plays you would use the Flush125 strategy,
wouldn't it. Well, this is what the math looks like:

Using Flush125 you are at 134.9% and will play an average of 42 games
to produce a flush.

Using Flush50 you are at 129% and will play an average of 55 games to
produce a flush.

34.9% of 42 is a yield of 14.658 bets.

29% of 55 is a yield of 15.95 bets.

So it appears that, in the case of Motel 6's, max EV in not the best
way to go.

I was fooling around with the calculator one day and discovered this
little conundrum. From then on I used flush 50 on the Motel 6's. It
made it a lot easier on the brain just using one strategy for the sweep
and for Motel 6's.

Flush 125 is ALSO the strategy you would use on a STAND ALONE if you
found a Motel 6. OR IS IT? Remember, a Motel 6 is where someone
triggered the machine into flush attack mode then walked off. So it
would seem that on these plays you would use the Flush125 strategy,
wouldn't it. Well, this is what the math looks like:

Using Flush125 you are at 134.9% and will play an average of 42 games
to produce a flush.

Using Flush50 you are at 129% and will play an average of 55 games to
produce a flush.

34.9% of 42 is a yield of 14.658 bets.

29% of 55 is a yield of 15.95 bets.

So it appears that, in the case of Motel 6's, max EV in not the best
way to go.

I was fooling around with the calculator one day and discovered this
little conundrum.

It surprises me how little understood this principle is. Maximizing
EV per hand often has the effect of reducing it overall. Except for
the value of one's time, if, say, one has a coupon that's good for an
extra pay on a 4 of a kind, the value of the coupon shouldn't be
included in one's strategy, assuming that one has a commitment to play
until the coupon has been used. It's more properly seen as that the
coupon is already worth the cash that it will be redeemed for, so that
the redemption is merely seen as changing the form of that value
rather than the 4 of a kind having the extra value. The cost of
hitting a progressive jackpot in the form of the meter resetting, for
the same reason, should make one's strategy on progressives more
conservative.

mickeycrimm wrote:

Flush50 is the strategy used for playing straight
through or sweeping flush attacks. It is
predicated on the average flush paying 50 coins.
Using the 101.8% version this is what you would
punch into a program to analyze and get the
strategy:
RF 800, SF 50, 4 Aces 160, Small Quads, 80,
Generic Quads 50, FH 8, FL 10, ST 4, 3K 3, 2P 1, HP 1.

On the linked-bank game Flush125 is the strategy
used when the bank is in Flush Attack Mode. It
is predicated on the flush paying 125 coins.
Using the 101.8% version this is what you would
punch into a program to analyze and get the strategy:
RF 800, SF 50, 4 Aces 160, Small Quads, 80,
Generic Quads 50, FH 8, FL 25, ST 4, 3K 3, 2P 1, HP 1.

Flush 125 is ALSO the strategy you would use on
a STAND ALONE if you found a Motel 6. OR IS IT?
Remember, a Motel 6 is where someone triggered
the machine into flush attack mode then walked off.
So it would seem that on these plays you would use
the Flush125 strategy, wouldn't it. Well, this
is what the math looks like:

Using Flush125 you are at 134.9% and will play
an average of 42 games to produce a flush.

Using Flush50 you are at 129% and will play an
average of 55 games to produce a flush.

34.9% of 42 is a yield of 14.658 bets.

29% of 55 is a yield of 15.95 bets.

So it appears that, in the case of Motel 6's,
max EV in not the best way to go.

I was fooling around with the calculator one
day and discovered this little conundrum. From
then on I used flush 50 on the Motel 6's. It made
it a lot easier on the brain just using one
strategy for the sweep and for Motel 6's.

Tom Robertson wrote:

It surprises me how little understood this
principle is. Maximizing EV per hand often
has the effect of reducing it overall. Except
for the value of one's time, if, say, one has
a coupon that's good for an extra pay on a 4
of a kind, the value of the coupon shouldn't be
included in one's strategy, assuming that one
has a commitment to play until the coupon has
been used. It's more properly seen as that the
coupon is already worth the cash that it will
be redeemed for, so that the redemption is merely
seen as changing the form of that value rather
than the 4 of a kind having the extra value.
The cost of hitting a progressive jackpot in
the form of the meter resetting, for the same
reason, should make one's strategy on progressives
more conservative.

For those interested in earlier discussions of
Tom's point, search for posts by Steve Jacobs.
He has long been a proponent of strategies that
are derived by maximizing some other measure than
expected value (EV).

I strongly agree with Tom's suggestion of using
a strategy other than the one that maximizes EV.
Some people say that using the MAX EV strategy will
maximize your hourly earn. I'm not sure that that
is accurate, when as Tom suggests you consider the
"cost of hitting a progressive". When the progressive
is hit, you're now out of work. It will take some
amount of time to find the next profitable
opportunity. I am usually paid $0 for that time
spent searching. So by hitting the jackpot, the
cost I incur includes expending that scouting effort
while earning nothing.

My personal preference is to use a less agressive
strategy when playing progressives. I do this so
that I will play more hours, making more money in
total. The price I pay for this method is that
my hourly win is less. I make this choice because
I choose to increase total profit rather than
hourly win rate (by using MAX EV strategy). In
these times of reduced opportunities, I think this
is the logical choice.

It has other benefits, including: fewer RF's
which may attract attention to yourself, fewer
W-2G's that may encourage the IRS to audit you,
less risk due to lower variance.

G'luck all,
Gamb00ler

I guess that my comment (question) on this is that why shouldn't your "strategy" be to
"pick up" the "progressive" (whatever it is) as quickly as possible. You are not only playing
against the clock. In my opinion, the more important opponents are the other players who
are trying to get the "progressive" before you do.

I do not think that I am posing a "wise-a$$" question here. I think that I am asking a real
question.

..... bl

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "gamb00ler" <gamb00ler@...> wrote:

mickeycrimm wrote:

I strongly agree with Tom's suggestion of using
a strategy other than the one that maximizes EV.

My personal preference is to use a less agressive
strategy when playing progressives. I do this so
that I will play more hours, making more money in
total. The price I pay for this method is that
my hourly win is less.

Gamb00ler

bornloser1537 wrote:

I guess that my comment (question) on this is that why shouldn't your
"strategy" be to "pick up" the "progressive" (whatever it is) as
quickly as possible. You are not only playing against the clock. In
my opinion, the more important opponents are the other players who
are trying to get the "progressive" before you do.

I'm going to use this question as an opportunity to intersperse some
replies to some various comments in this thread. The discussion is
focussed on variations to play strategy. In consideration such
variations, it's important to clearly identify the variables at play
so that the most optimal choice is made.

With respect to bl's question, how you approach a progressive all
depends on what your goal is. In any case, since ideally it's not an
ego exercise (although I won't deny there's an element of that in a
hit for me ;), beating others to the punch is only a primary goal if
that supports an economic goal. However, depending upon your
approach, it can be a bit of a hare/tortoise situation.

What's been suggested in this thread is that maximizing ER (total
return/total wagers ... alternatively, max-EV per play) may not
maximize your total profit per turn at the progressive. A strategy
that seeks to maximize profit per turn will be less aggressive -- you
still play at a strong-ER for what is on average a longer period of
time ... with the right strategy, this will result in a greater EV
(however, simply going with a strategy based upon a 4000 cr meter will
likely reduce your EV). More comment on this following
Tom's/gambOOler's posts below.

mickeycrimm wrote (Flush Attack "Motel 6" plays):

Using Flush125 you are at 134.9% and will play
an average of 42 games to produce a flush.

Using Flush50 you are at 129% and will play an
average of 55 games to produce a flush.

34.9% of 42 is a yield of 14.658 bets.

29% of 55 is a yield of 15.95 bets.

So it appears that, in the case of Motel 6's,
max EV in not the best way to go.

Frankly, I'd argue that this is indeed targets a max-EV strategy ...
just not a max-ER one. (btw, my guess that there is another Flush
value that yields an even higher bet value.)

The fallacy that I believe Tom means to refer to below is not that
there are cases where max-EV strategy isn't appropriate ... instead,
that max-ER doesn't always get you to max-EV.

Remember, "max-EV per play" isn't the true focus of max-EV strategy
... an effective max-EV strategy will get you the max-EV for your play
during the course of your play over an extended period of time.
Therefore, strategies which may reduce your EV per play but extend
your length of play have the potential to increase your overall EV.

This may likely be the case identified here. However, there's a key
presumption in Mickey's assessment. He identifies that 1.3 bets can
be eked out by playing less aggressively. The tradeoff is that it
takes longer to do so. That additional effort isn't what's key --
it's that during that additional time he could be attacking another
play that might yield more than 1.3 bets in the additional time,
making the less aggressive strategy less optimal.

Of course, it's probably safe to assume that Mickey didn't have
another play at hand yielding that much value. The point is simply
that looking at the play in isolation could overlook external aspects
that might make what looks like a strategy to optimize EV actually
sub-optimal.

Tom Robertson wrote:

It surprises me how little understood this
principle is. Maximizing EV per hand often
has the effect of reducing it overall. Except
for the value of one's time, if, say, one has
a coupon that's good for an extra pay on a 4
of a kind, the value of the coupon shouldn't be
included in one's strategy, assuming that one
has a commitment to play until the coupon has
been used. It's more properly seen as that the
coupon is already worth the cash that it will
be redeemed for, so that the redemption is merely
seen as changing the form of that value rather
than the 4 of a kind having the extra value.
The cost of hitting a progressive jackpot in
the form of the meter resetting, for the same
reason, should make one's strategy on progressives
more conservative.

"Little understood" suggests misunderstood. It's more the case that
it's simply not on the front burner for most people. Rightfully so.
Getting the most out of VP play involves numerous challenges -- most
of greater magnitude and consequence than the concept of alternate
strategies. However, when you're on top of your game, it's an area
worth dabbling in.

Re your 4K bonus coupon example ... I expect I disagree with you.
Well, I'm with you to the extent of the wording "commitment to play
until the coupon has been used". There's no more "commitment" called
for in playing with a coupon than when playing any other good play.
If you don't hit under the coupon, it's no different than failing to
get a good hit on any other play. But, just as with a hypothetical
short term appearance of an unusually good play (say, $1 deuces), a
player will reasonably be induced to play more than they otherwise might.

However, it might be read into your comment that no strategy change is
appropriate. Under most any goal that seeks to increase value (not
necessarily max-ER), a strategy change that plays more aggressively
for the initial quad is called for if you plan to continue play on the
game subsequent to redemption. If, on the other hand, you intend to
abandon the game after hitting the quad (the base paytable is
unattractive in absence of the coupon, for example) it may or may not
be appropriate to play more aggressive for the quad -- again,
depending upon external variables.

Your final comment re a progressive alludes to the fact that once it's
hit the meter resets. Deferring that hit, meaning that you play
longer under a strong ER situation, may or may not improve your play
profitability ... but it has that possibility.

gamb00ler wrote:

> I strongly agree with Tom's suggestion of using
> a strategy other than the one that maximizes EV.
>
> For those interested in earlier discussions of
> Tom's point, search for posts by Steve Jacobs.
> He has long been a proponent of strategies that
> are derived by maximizing some other measure than
> expected value (EV).
>
> My personal preference is to use a less agressive
> strategy when playing progressives. I do this so
> that I will play more hours, making more money in
> total. The price I pay for this method is that
> my hourly win is less.

The crux of Steve's greatest emphasis was that there were alternatives
to max-ER. (Max-EV was of lesser focus, but he certainly put forth
that there are other legitimate goals than Max-ER, such as bankroll
conservation.)

One of Steve's progressive examples looks to maximize EV out of each
progressive hit by adopting a strategy that minimizes the drain
between hits. (Accomplished by playing a hypothetical max-ER strategy
for a meter at which the game ER would be 100%, no matter what the
actual mater.)

FWIW, I believe the progressive goal you state yields an alternate
strategy than Steve's min-cost strategy above and calls for another
derivation. In any case, as noted, whether you "make more money in
total" on all of your play (vs. just that of the progressive) if, of
course, dependent upon your other play opportunities.

···

------

As I prefaced, these comments are just to clarify the underlying
variables.

My general take on alternate strategies is that with the exception of
more some more dramatic examples, when you take a hard look at their
consequences vs. max-ER strategy, the differences can be markedly
modest (as is the case with Steve's min-cost progressive strategy).

- Harry

Tom Robertson wrote:

It surprises me how little understood this
principle is. Maximizing EV per hand often
has the effect of reducing it overall. Except
for the value of one's time, if, say, one has
a coupon that's good for an extra pay on a 4
of a kind, the value of the coupon shouldn't be
included in one's strategy, assuming that one
has a commitment to play until the coupon has
been used. It's more properly seen as that the
coupon is already worth the cash that it will
be redeemed for, so that the redemption is merely
seen as changing the form of that value rather
than the 4 of a kind having the extra value.
The cost of hitting a progressive jackpot in
the form of the meter resetting, for the same
reason, should make one's strategy on progressives
more conservative.

Harry wrote:

"Little understood" suggests misunderstood. It's more the case that
it's simply not on the front burner for most people. Rightfully so.
Getting the most out of VP play involves numerous challenges -- most
of greater magnitude and consequence than the concept of alternate
strategies. However, when you're on top of your game, it's an area
worth dabbling in.

Re your 4K bonus coupon example ... I expect I disagree with you.
Well, I'm with you to the extent of the wording "commitment to play
until the coupon has been used". There's no more "commitment" called
for in playing with a coupon than when playing any other good play.
If you don't hit under the coupon, it's no different than failing to
get a good hit on any other play.

"Commitment" relates to the fact that the chance of using the coupon
affects optimal strategy. The optimal strategy if one has a coupon
which will double one's next royal flush, but only if it is hit in the
next hour, is much closer to that which assumes the royal flush pays
what it does than if one has one flush to hit, with unlimited time, on
a flush attack machine, after which the machine will be abandoned, in
which case I believe the optimal strategy, disregarding such
extraneous factors that you've mentioned as the value of one's time
and what other machines are available, is to assume that the flush
pays such that the game breaks even, no matter what the flush actually
pays.

I guess that my comment (question) on this is that why shouldn't your "strategy" be to
"pick up" the "progressive" (whatever it is) as quickly as possible. You are not only playing
against the clock. In my opinion, the more important opponents are the other players who
are trying to get the "progressive" before you do.

As Harry pointed out, it depends on what your goal is. Hitting
progressives as quickly as possible would mean disregarding all costs
of hitting them. I assume you didn't really mean that. Assuming the
goal is to maximize money won per, say, year, rather than per hour,
the duration of progressives must be taken into account. Just as not
playing as aggressively for the flush as the flush pays in the "Motel
6" flush attack situation optimizes that value, so must the value of
hitting a progressive meter take into account what is lost in the
process of hitting it. The very fact that one is playing for a
progressive and will quit after it is hit means that value is lost if
it is hit, regardless of who hits it.

I'm just wondering as to where flush attack still exists?

Both players only play when the Royal is at $6000. But they use
different strategies. I used perfect cycles to come up with the
numbers. Which strategy would you use?

Player A uses the 6000 coin Royal strategy--and never changes.
It produces a royal every 33,202 hands.
The Variance is 47.
Theoretical is 100.6513% plus .5% meter.
The royal represents 3.61% of the payback.
Loss rate between royals is 2.9587%.
He plays at a constant 800 hands per hour.
Loss rate between royals in hard currency: $118.35 per hour.
He will make a royal every 41.5 hours (33,202 divided by 800)
Cost to produce royal: $4912 (33,202 X 5 X 2.9587%)
He will put $830 in meter per royal. (33,202 X 5 X .5%)
Average royal will be: $6830
Average profit: $1918
Hourly Rate: $46.22 per hour.

PLAYER B uses the 4000 coin Royal Strategy--and never changes.
It produces a royal every 40,391 hands.
The Variance is 19.
Theoretical is 100.5342 plus .5% meter.
The royal represents 2.97% of the payback.
Loss rate between royals is 2.4361%.
He plays a constant 800 hands per hour.
Loss rate between royals in hard currency: $97.44 per hour
He will make a royal every 50.5 hours (40,391 divided by 800)
Cost to produce royal: $4920
He will put $1010 in the meter per royal. (40,391 X 5 X .5%)
Average royal will be: $7010
Average profit: $2090
Hourly Rate: $41.39 per hour.

Player A makes about $5 an hour more than Player B. But Player A's
loss rate between royals is about $21 an hour higher than Player B.

Which strategy should YOU use? That's up to you.