vpFREE2 Forums

Using Double Down

I've been assuming coin-in cashback, formulas are:
ER=Probability x (Win+CB)
Variance=Probability x (Win+CB-ER)^2
R(1)=Probability x R(1)^(Win+CB)
ror=R(1)^bankroll

coin-out cashback is riskier, formulas are:
ER=Probability x (Win+(CB x Win))
Variance=Probability x (Win+(CB x Win)-ER)^2
R(1)=Probability x R(1)^(Win+(CB x Win))
ror=R(1)^bankroll

for 9/6job +1% coin-out cashback maxER strategy i get:
ER=1.0054
Variance=19.91
R(1)=0.999384776
10%ror bankroll=3742 bets

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, Steve Jacobs <jacobs@x> wrote:

may only work correctly for one case (the formula I've seen
with Sorokin's name attached is correct for coin-out cash-back).

Because 9/6 jacks *without any comps* is a losing game, in the long
term you lose, but if you insist on playing, and play only in the
short term, quiting when you hit some positive goal or crap out, you
increase your odds of winning by being aggressive, for example by
holding 3 card royals over a high pair. That and progressive betting
seems to be rob singer's strategy. The big problem is that few if any
gamblers I know actually quit when they win, they continue to play,
or play again next week (same thing) and before they know it, they
are in the long term where negative games and progressive betting
lose. In the long term, only positive games win, and you have to have
the correct strategy and play it correctly and you have to have the
bankroll to sustain the swings and it would be a good idea to have
regulated gambling also so cheats like the Venetian car give away are
caught and fined. And the long term comes quicker than many people
suspect, though most find they are actually negative players and not
positive as they had assumed.

Tom, thanks for the link to Steve's strategy. Looking at this
strategy, the first notable change is holding several 3RFs over a
high pair. Now, I'm not a math major, but how exactly does throwing
away a sure win for the possibility of a longshot royal lower

risk???

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "Dave" <wolverines72@y...> wrote:

Maybe there's something I'm not seeing here....

Dave

stanfordwang wrote:

Because 9/6 jacks *without any comps* is a losing game, in the long

term you lose, but if you insist on playing, and play only in the
short term, quiting when you hit some positive goal or crap out, you
increase your odds of winning by being aggressive, for example by
holding 3 card royals over a high pair. That and progressive betting... <

I want to thank you and Steve Jacobs for contributions to this thread. Although I am not a "math" person, I find it very interesting. What strategy changes would you make to the MIN-RISK strategy for 8/5 BP (200 quad 2-4 99.166%)
Thanks,
GB

···

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What strategy changes would you make to the MIN-RISK strategy for
8/5 BP (200 quad 2-4 99.166%)

If I was at a disadvantage (ER+comps<100.5%) I wouldn't play. I can
play any game I want for free on my computer, you can too with
WinPoker or Frugal Video Poker, so why would a sane person pay to
play something they can play for free? If I had an advantage and the
bankroll to play I'd play it the same way I play jacks or better or
pretty much any other game that returns 2 for 2Pair:
4RF>FL>ST>4SF>2Pair>HighPair>4FL>3RF>KQJT>LowPair>4STnogaps>
3SFnogaps or 1 gap and 1 high card or 2 gaps and 2 high cards>

2RFwith2HighCards>4STwith3HighCards>3SFonegap or 2 gaps

and 1 high card>KQJ>2HighCards>JTs>QTs>1HighCard>3SFtwogaps

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, glen bob <glenbob@y...> wrote:

Stanfordwang wrote:

...so why would a sane person pay to

play something they can play for free? <

Thank you for your reply concerning 8/5 BP. Re your comment, there are many reasons: I am not a pro, I enjoy the casino experience over my lonely computer room, I have to do something while my wife plays slots, I don't like 9/6 JOB(too boring), I don't like 10/7 DB(too streaky for my bankroll), I am very cautious in my play, I use a hit and run approach ala the dreaded, banned RS but on a very small scale. :slight_smile:

Regarding my question about 8/5 BP min risk strategy, I am trying to grasp Steve Jacobs 9/6 min-risk preference for a 3 card RF over a hi pair. I assume this would not be a proper play in a game that pays a bonus for Quads. The only change I see in your strategy vs. Skip Huges 9/6 or 8/5 is a preference for 4/flush over a 3 card RF.
Thanks,
GB

···

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Glen,

I'll take a shot at partially answering your question and answering
the questions I think you should have asked. Stanford Wang and Steve
Jacobs are not advocating the same thing. Stanford is advocating a
max bankroll growth strategy which gives up a little ER to lower the
variance. It does not apply to a negative (net) game, thus his
comment about playing at home. It can be applied only if you
quantify the casino experience on a per hand basis and the value
added makes it a positive game. You get a smoother ride by keeping
FL4 over RF3. Hopefully he will forgive me for putting words in his
mouth by saying that he dislikes the RF3 over HPR because it both
lowers ER and increases variance.

Steve's min risk strategy applies (with footnotes) to negative games
with a goal oriented strategy. It is based on saving money by
playing less hands. If you hit a royal and are then happy to quit
playing and revel in your experience for the rest of the day this
type strategy could make some sense. If you are going to play a
fixed number of hands regardless of result, it makes no economic
sense. If you apply enough of a per hand value to the experience,
thus changing it into a positive game, the min-risk strategy
changes. It will morph into a strategy like Stanford is advocating.
    
If you are playing about 2000 hands of quarter play X 5 coins, your
decision to play BP vs JB costs about $9.75 in expectation. The
strategy changes considered here are WAY less important economically
than that.

The question of RF3 vs HPR only matters if you buy into the dreaded
goal oriented approach. Actually the decision is very similar in JB
and BP. The quad bonus is irrelevant because you can't get it with
either holding. The difference is that in bonus poker, you get less
for flushes (5 vs. 6) thus leaning toward HPR but also less for FHS
(8 vs. 9), thus leaning toward RF3. These two effects mostly cancel
with the net a slight leaning toward HPR. I don't know if the
official "min-risk" strategy for BP calls for this change. IMHO, it
really isn't worth sweating for a guy who plays BP over JB to avoid
boredom. Take a shot at it if you want. If you really want to drive
yourself crazy, you can actually parse the RF3 into classes, Ace and
10, Ace no 10, KQJ, QJ10, King and 10, No Ace, since they all have
different values and the breakpoint probably actually falls between
the best and worst.

Thank you for your reply concerning 8/5 BP. Re your comment, there

are many reasons: I am not a pro, I enjoy the casino experience over
my lonely computer room, I have to do something while my wife plays
slots, I don't like 9/6 JOB(too boring), I don't like 10/7 DB(too
streaky for my bankroll), I am very cautious in my play, I use a hit
and run approach ala the dreaded, banned RS but on a very small
scale. :slight_smile:

Regarding my question about 8/5 BP min risk strategy, I am trying

to grasp Steve Jacobs 9/6 min-risk preference for a 3 card RF over a
hi pair. I assume this would not be a proper play in a game that pays
a bonus for Quads. The only change I see in your strategy vs. Skip
Huges 9/6 or 8/5 is a preference for 4/flush over a 3 card RF.

···

Thanks,
GB

These changes in strategy are all based stricly on a mathematical
analysis of the game, but the analysis is performed from a risk perspective
rather than an ER perspective.

For negative games, the min-risk strategy weights all payoffs at values
that are higher than the true payoff, and this "bias" applies more heavily
to large payoff. The overall effect is that the largest payoffs increase
in priority. So, hands that allow royals become "more valuable" in
terms of reducing risk.

For positive games, the effect is just the opposite -- payoffs are weighted
less than their true values, but the bias is still applied more heavily for
large payoffs, so drawing to a royal becomes a lower priority compared
to max-ER strategy.

···

On Saturday 28 February 2004 09:39 am, glen bob wrote:

Regarding my question about 8/5 BP min risk strategy, I am trying to grasp
Steve Jacobs 9/6 min-risk preference for a 3 card RF over a hi pair. I
assume this would not be a proper play in a game that pays a bonus for
Quads. The only change I see in your strategy vs. Skip Huges 9/6 or 8/5 is
a preference for 4/flush over a 3 card RF. Thanks,

<<snippage>>

** Regarding my question about 8/5 BP min risk strategy, I am trying
to grasp Steve Jacobs 9/6 min-risk preference for a 3 card RF over a
hi pair. I assume this would not be a proper play in a game that pays
a bonus for Quads. The only change I see in your strategy vs. Skip
Huges 9/6 or 8/5 is a preference for 4/flush over a 3 card RF.

Thanks,
GB**

That's exactly what I am trying to grasp. Yes, 9/6 JoB is negative,
but only marginally so with decent cashback or comp value. Right now,
Aladdin's comps for VP are 0.33%, so the payback of "Big Red" in the
center room is 99.89% using max-EV. It is probably 99.87% using min-
risk. So, playing *more* aggressively (i.e. holding a 3RF over a
paying pair) seems very counter-intuitive for those of us trying to
keep from busting while having an enjoyable experience, drinking free
drinks, and padding the point balance without having to resort to the
boredom of VBJ. Again, let me spell it out. I'm not trying to double
my bankroll (necessarily) as fast as possible. I'm trying to "stay
and play" while having less anxiety about busting for a session.

Back to seeing the forest instead of the trees....this line of
questioning about "min-risk" is somewhat of a "thought experiment". I
realize that the bankroll savings for holding a 4FL over a 3RF is not
huge, and I also realize that I'll go for the 3RF a sizeable part of
the time. Still, it serves my purpose somewhat to know when to
go "conservative". When I get to the point where I have larger
bankrolls, playing "min-risk" won't even be a consideration.

But 3RF over a paying pair? What gives??

Dave

···

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That's exactly what I am trying to grasp. Yes, 9/6 JoB is negative,
but only marginally so with decent cashback or comp value. Right now,
Aladdin's comps for VP are 0.33%, so the payback of "Big Red" in the
center room is 99.89% using max-EV. It is probably 99.87% using min-
risk.

That may be close enough to breakeven to make max-EV and min-risk
become identical strategies. The 9/6 min-risk strategy that I posted
assumed _no_ bonuses of any kind.

Back to seeing the forest instead of the trees....this line of
questioning about "min-risk" is somewhat of a "thought experiment". I
realize that the bankroll savings for holding a 4FL over a 3RF is not
huge, and I also realize that I'll go for the 3RF a sizeable part of
the time. Still, it serves my purpose somewhat to know when to
go "conservative". When I get to the point where I have larger
bankrolls, playing "min-risk" won't even be a consideration.

Playing min-risk instead of max-EV is a choice. A player who is
more concerned about risk than EV may choose to use the min-risk
strategy. If another player chooses to use max-EV, then there is
nothing wrong with _either_ decision.

But 3RF over a paying pair? What gives??

Why are you so hung up on high pairs? If the max-EV strategy
said to break up the pair, would you do it? If you wouldn't, then
I'd claim that you don't really believe in maximizing EV.

Mathematically speaking, a player who keeps the pair is playing
at a greater level of risk than a player who keeps 3RF. Risk
isn't simply about winning _something_, the amount won makes
a difference, and in negative games where two choices have
the same (or very nearly the same) EV, the choice that allows
larger payoffs will have lower risk. In particular, royal payoffs
are "stretched" by about 18.5% in 9/6 JoB when computing
risk, while pairs payoffs are "stretched" only 0.02%. For a
game that is even more negative, like 8/5 JoB, the royal payoff
is "stretched" by 68% to compute min-risk strategy.

I know it may seem counter-intuitive, but that's what the math
says. If it _really_ bothers you, then that may be an indication
that min-risk doesn't match your personal taste in playing
strategies. Nothing wrong with that, at all.

···

On Saturday 28 February 2004 08:27 pm, Dave wrote:

Stanfordwang wrote:
>...so why would a sane person pay to
play something they can play for free? <

Thank you for your reply concerning 8/5 BP. Re your comment, there

are many reasons: I am not a pro, I enjoy the casino experience over
my lonely computer room, I have to do something while my wife plays
slots, I don't like 9/6 JOB(too boring), I don't like 10/7 DB(too
streaky for my bankroll), I am very cautious in my play, I use a hit
and run approach ala the dreaded, banned RS but on a very small
scale. :slight_smile:

Regarding my question about 8/5 BP min risk strategy, I am trying

to grasp Steve Jacobs 9/6 min-risk preference for a 3 card RF over a
hi pair. I assume this would not be a proper play in a game that pays
a bonus for Quads. The only change I see in your strategy vs. Skip
Huges 9/6 or 8/5 is a preference for 4/flush over a 3 card RF.

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, glen bob <glenbob@y...> wrote:

Thanks,
GB

=

This is really a long thread. I'm worn out just trying to follow it
all. I'm also worn out from pushing my luck in casinos.

    On the subject of playing a min-risk strategy for the

different games to "maybe" make a bankroll last longer during your
sessions and thus effecting ER and variance slightly. My advice is,
Don't Do It!
  Since the main goal of playing these highly volitile games is to
get the royal, and most of your vp sessions are going to be losers
anyway until you hit that royal no matter how carefully you follow
the correct strategy, you must take the advice of that expert of
experts to be a consistent winner in the long run: "The Computer God."
   "The Computer God" doesn't care if you are black or white or any
other race. "The Computer God" doesn't care if you are rich or
poor. "The Computer God" doesn't care if you are good, bad, or
ugly. "The Computer God" just gives mathematicly correct advice to
all who will listen on how to conduct your life while playing video
poker. Heed his wisdom and he will protect you in the long run from
all the slings and arrows of outrageous vp fortune. Ignore his
advice and play at you own risk. When he tells me to go for the royal
by playing this way, I do it!

   Hold any high pair over any three royals playing these games:

   9/6 JB
   9/6/5 DD JACKPOT
   BONUS DELUXE
   BONUS

   And when he tells me to hold any high pair over three royals with
these exceptions, I do it!

   10/7/5 DB- Except for the 10-J-Q AND J-Q-K
    9/7/5 DB- SAME
    9/6/4 DDB- SAME
    PICK'EM-Except for three royals with an ace

   These are written in stone and were handed down form the mountain
to Bob "Moses" Dancer by "The Computer God" him or herself and shall
not be questioned under penalty of death of your bankroll.

   It's your money and your choice. You can be a winning believer or
a losing heathen. I'm hoping you will join us winners. Hallleujah!

                           TM & VP

   "The casinos think that anyone who enters their doors to gamble is
the enemy and should lose. And if you don't, in spite of all the fake
smiles and cordiality, they don't like it one dang bit and would bar
you if they could get away with it without all the bad press. "
                                                         --VP Pappy

   These are written in stone and were handed down form the mountain
to Bob "Moses" Dancer by "The Computer God" him or herself and shall
not be questioned under penalty of death of your bankroll.

If the religious approach gives you comfort, then enjoy your blind faith.
Personally, I'm always a bit suspicious of anything that "shall not be
questioned." Too much like someone is trying to hide something.

If you ask "The Computer God" (TCG): "What strategy gives the best chance
of having a bankroll survive until I hit a royal" and TCG answers "use
the max-ER strategy" then TCG is a false god. Period.

I'm not claiming that Dancer would answer that way, but I am claiming
that _math_ answers that way and any _true_ "computer god" would
reach the same conclusion. The "max-ER is the only answer" religion
is a false religion.

It's your money and your choice.

Yes, and it is important to understand that there _are_ meaningfully
choices that can be made about how to play. The idea of "one
strategy fits all" is a flawed concept which is not supported by
math. Those who believe in math have a _real_ choice.

You can be a winning believer or a losing heathen.

Or you can realize that there are different ways to mathematically
measure "winning" and the best way to play depends on how one
chooses to measure success. Then, you can win in the way which
best meets _your_ objectives rather than win in the way which
appeases false gods.

I'm hoping you will join us winners. Hallleujah!

Nice emotional appeal. Tugs on a broad range of emotions from
greed to fear to desire to "fit in" with the group. But, appeals to
emotion are not a substitute for math, and any true "computer god"
would never say "no not question."

···

On Sunday 29 February 2004 10:50 am, vppappy wrote:

<<snippage>>

Mathematically speaking, a player who keeps the pair is playing
at a greater level of risk than a player who keeps 3RF. Risk
isn't simply about winning _something_, the amount won makes
a difference, and in negative games where two choices have
the same (or very nearly the same) EV, the choice that allows
larger payoffs will have lower risk. In particular, royal payoffs
are "stretched" by about 18.5% in 9/6 JoB when computing
risk, while pairs payoffs are "stretched" only 0.02%. For a
game that is even more negative, like 8/5 JoB, the royal payoff
is "stretched" by 68% to compute min-risk strategy.

So, basically, you're saying that in order to make up for the
negative nature of the game, you have to go for the royal a bit more,
because its payoff is so large. What does this do to the variance of
the game? Upon my first inspection (awhile back now) it would seem to
increase it, but are you also saying that variance decreases, because
you hit the high payoff a bit more?

Dave

<<snippage>>

> Mathematically speaking, a player who keeps the pair is playing
> at a greater level of risk than a player who keeps 3RF. Risk
> isn't simply about winning _something_, the amount won makes
> a difference, and in negative games where two choices have
> the same (or very nearly the same) EV, the choice that allows
> larger payoffs will have lower risk. In particular, royal payoffs
> are "stretched" by about 18.5% in 9/6 JoB when computing
> risk, while pairs payoffs are "stretched" only 0.02%. For a
> game that is even more negative, like 8/5 JoB, the royal payoff
> is "stretched" by 68% to compute min-risk strategy.

So, basically, you're saying that in order to make up for the
negative nature of the game, you have to go for the royal a bit more,
because its payoff is so large.

Correct.

What does this do to the variance of
the game? Upon my first inspection (awhile back now) it would seem to
increase it, but are you also saying that variance decreases, because
you hit the high payoff a bit more?

It does increase variance, but in negative games that increase in variance
can correspond to a decrease in risk. Variance and risk aren't the same,
and they don't always move in the same direction. Some gambling experts
don't understand this, so they mistakenly treat variance and risk as if they
always move in the same direction.

I'm tempted to claim that playing a negative VP game more agressively
than min-risk would cause variance and risk to both increase (compared
to min-risk) but I'm not sure that is true. I'll try to prove that to myself,
one way or the other. It may turn out that variance and risk always move
in the same direction for favorable games and always move in opposite
directions for negative games.

···

On Sunday 29 February 2004 12:24 pm, Dave wrote:

> <<snippage>>
>
> > Mathematically speaking, a player who keeps the pair is playing
> > at a greater level of risk than a player who keeps 3RF. Risk
> > isn't simply about winning _something_, the amount won makes
> > a difference, and in negative games where two choices have
> > the same (or very nearly the same) EV, the choice that allows
> > larger payoffs will have lower risk. In particular, royal

payoffs

> > are "stretched" by about 18.5% in 9/6 JoB when computing
> > risk, while pairs payoffs are "stretched" only 0.02%. For a
> > game that is even more negative, like 8/5 JoB, the royal payoff
> > is "stretched" by 68% to compute min-risk strategy.
>
> So, basically, you're saying that in order to make up for the
> negative nature of the game, you have to go for the royal a bit

more,

> because its payoff is so large.

Correct.

> What does this do to the variance of
> the game? Upon my first inspection (awhile back now) it would

seem to

> increase it, but are you also saying that variance decreases,

because

> you hit the high payoff a bit more?

It does increase variance, but in negative games that increase in

variance

can correspond to a decrease in risk. Variance and risk aren't the

same,

and they don't always move in the same direction. Some gambling

experts

don't understand this, so they mistakenly treat variance and risk

as if they

always move in the same direction.

I'm tempted to claim that playing a negative VP game more

agressively

than min-risk would cause variance and risk to both increase

(compared

to min-risk) but I'm not sure that is true. I'll try to prove that

to myself,

one way or the other. It may turn out that variance and risk

always move

in the same direction for favorable games and always move in

opposite

directions for negative games.

--- Steve, thanks for the insight, it's appreciated....

Dave

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, Steve Jacobs <jacobs@x> wrote:

On Sunday 29 February 2004 12:24 pm, Dave wrote:

   "The casinos think that anyone who enters their doors to gamble

is

the enemy and should lose. And if you don't, in spite of all the

fake

smiles and cordiality, they don't like it one dang bit and would

bar

you if they could get away with it without all the bad press. "
                                                         --VP Pappy

This is more true than you would think... last december I was
talking to a Executive Host at Harrahs (st. louis) and she wrote
down several of my questions and went to find some answers... later
she came back with a very preturbed look on her face and said "you
are way ahead this year" ... I thought I did something wrong and she
wanted to punish me, needless to say, things didnt go very well.
Casinos really dont want any winners at all, they want to play the
game as long as it always goes their way...

Jim

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "vppappy" <tismurph@h...> wrote:

jimnkelli wrote:

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "vppappy" <tismurph@h...> wrote:
>
> "The casinos think that anyone who enters their doors to gamble
is
> the enemy and should lose. And if you don't, in spite of all the
fake
> smiles and cordiality, they don't like it one dang bit and would
bar
> you if they could get away with it without all the bad press. "
> --VP Pappy
>

Casinos really dont want any winners at all, they want to play the
game as long as it always goes their way...

Jim

This shouldn't surprise any one. After all casinos like all
corporations have to make profits to exist. The sole purpose of all
corporations is to make the most money they can. That is the
Capitalist way, there is nothing wrong with it and it works very
well. Dick Mck.

Mck.

vpFREE Links:

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

This was a thread from quite awhile back, but I am looking at this subject again. I would like Steve Jacobs and others answers to this question:

I know that a minimum risk strategy will vary from the Max ER one for the same game. However, would a minimum risk player (who believed in the math) sometimes choose a lower EV game even when a higher one is available? For example, choose JoB instead of FPDW because of its lower volatility - they would be more likely to last longer on a smaller session bankroll although if they did this every session, in the long term (infinity) they would be net losers because JoB is a negative game. Would they be better to stick to FPDW and vary their strategy to a lower-risk one?

Another example, choosing between two negative games. Would the wise minimum-risk player choose 8/5 Bonus over 9/6 JoB because he has a chance for several mini-jackpots. In this case, he is choosing more volatility as well as lower EV. But is this a wise choice for his goal?

I can see between two positive-expectation games that choosing the less volatile one might be a wise choice for someone whose goal is to last longer in one session because he has a small bankroll. Although one's required long-term bankroll gets smaller the higher the game EV.

I still think we are on a slippery slope when we discuss this "in front of the children," but I need to understand this thoroughly so I can give newbies and people with different goals the most useful advice. It seems to me that most people who deviate from Max EV strategy or choose games like negative DDB instead of positive games are actually increasing their risk as well as losing EV. Is this not true?

···

________________________________________
Jean $¢ott - http://www.FrugalGambler.biz
  for VP software and strategy cards.
  NEW - Blackjack Strategy Cards +
              Updated Second Edition of
             "The Frugal Gambler."

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

This was a thread from quite awhile back, but I am
looking at this subject again. I would like Steve
Jacobs and others answers to this question:

I've been lurking on this list for a little while now,
and this seems as good a time as any to emerge and
yammer about topics near and dear to my heart. :slight_smile:

I wasn't here for the previous discussion, so I'll
clarify my assumptions explicitly when possible.

I know that a minimum risk strategy will vary from
the Max ER one for the same game.

I take "Max ER" strategy to be the unique strategy
which maximizes the expectation from a single "play."

There are a very large number of other strategies that
can be employed; each of these other strategies
deviate from the Max ER strategy is some way. Some of
these reasons are:

-Simplicity
For example, the strategies that most players normally
play, which are slightly simplified versions of the
Max ER strategy.
-No reason at all
Other strategies deviate from the Max ER strategy for
no reason at all -- as for example occurs with errors
or not knowing the correct play in a given situation.
-Variance reduction
It is possible for some games to construct strategies
that reduce volatility for the sake of small amounts
of EV. For example, imagine a game where a full house
paid just a tiny amount less than the expectation of a
draw to say, three aces (because of jackpots or the
like). Then risk-averse players might simply choose to
sacrifice the tiny amount of expectation to reduce
volatility by holding the full house. I'll call these
VR strategies for short.

However, would a
minimum risk player (who believed in the math)
sometimes choose a lower EV game even when a higher
one is available?

The thing is that in one sense playing a VR strategy
is the same as choosing a different game -- one with
lower volatility and lower expectation.

It's worth noting, however, that volatility and risk
are not synonymous, although they're related.

For example, increasing the royal payout on JoB to
5000 instead of 4000 would increase the volatility or
variance of the game substantially -- but it would
have a positive or zero effect on any risk metric you
can imagine.

The thing is that there isn't a single measurement of
"risk" that we can just slap a number on and work
with. There are a lot of different reasonable ways to
define risk -- some of which you bring up in a moment.

First, there's "risk of ruin." This is a
mathematically derived quantity that uses the
following assumptions:

You start with some bankroll amount.
You play the game with your strategy forever.
What's the chance that you ever go broke?

Now the answer to this question can be revealing in a
number of ways. First of all, if the game is negative
expectation, then the answer is always 100%. But if
the game is positive, the answer isn't 0% - we might
lose all our money before we get ahead enough to be
safe.

So risk of ruin is essentially a *long-term* risk
measurement, for considering questions like "I want to
play video poker for a living and have a 5% chance of
losing my starting stash. How much bankroll do I
need?"

The usual way that RoR is calculated in VP (I've
gathered) is from simulations, although it can be
directly calculated algebraically as well.

For example, choose JoB instead
of FPDW because of its lower volatility - they would
be more likely to last longer on a smaller session
bankroll although if they did this every session, in
the long term (infinity) they would be net losers
because JoB is a negative game. Would they be
better to stick to FPDW and vary their strategy to a
lower-risk one?

So here we get into an idea of "session bankroll,"
which is a measurement of "how often and how quickly
will I go broke from a given bankroll?" This would be
primarily of use to the occasional player. This is an
altogether different measurement than risk of ruin,
because it is primarily concerned with the outcomes
that occur in a specified timeframe.

Consider two games. In the first game, the player
flips a coin, and if the coin comes up heads, the
player wins $.99. If the coin comes up tails, the
player loses $1.

In the second game, we spin a wheel numbered 1 to 10.
If the wheel comes up 1, the player wins $10. If the
wheel comes up any other number, the player loses $1.

Now the risk of ruin of the first game is 100%,
because it is a negative expectation game. So if you
play every day, you will end up a net loser. The risk
of ruin of the second game, by contrast, is something
entirely different. The game is positive expectation,
and it turns out that the RoR of the game is
e^(.0194398*b).

Now, suppose we have a player with $50 who is trying
to decide what to play. If they are going to play one
game or the other for a long time, and often, they
should choose the second game. But let's say that they
really just want to play SOME game for a few hours and
not go broke. Then choosing the second game is likely
wrong -- because they will go broke playing forever
about 37.8% of the time, and almost all of that will
occur during the first few hours.

How does this apply to video poker? Well, the chance
of losing a fixed bankroll stake in a fixed, modestly
chosen number of hands (a session) is dependent almost
exclusively on the volatility of the game, and not the
expectation.

Remember before I characterized playing VR strategies
as choosing a different game, with lower expectation
and lower volatility. One problem here is that you
can't convert these two quantities very freely; that
is, the cost of reducing volatility in expectation
terms grows as you do it more and more. A strategy
will have at most a few places where you can easily
reduce variance by giving up expectation. After that,
the cost becomes even greater.

Say our hypothetical player will play sessions of
approximately 10,000 coin-in.

If our hypothetical risk-averse player chooses to play
JoB (99.5% return, but a 10% chance of going broke on
a session bankroll) instead of FPDW (100.7% return,
but a 30% chance of going broke on a session
bankroll), then he/she is effectively paying 1.2% of
10,000, or 120 coins, for the pleasure of not going
broke 20% of the time.

This type of comparison holds true no matter whether
the two games are JoB and FPDW, or FPDW and FPDW
played with a VR strategy.

Another example, choosing between two negative
games. Would the wise minimum-risk player choose
8/5 Bonus over 9/6 JoB because he has a chance for
several mini-jackpots. In this case, he is choosing
more volatility as well as lower EV. But is this a
wise choice for his goal?

Almost certainly not. Because all video poker payouts
are within some narrow band, the more mini-jackpots
there are, the *lower the payouts for run-of-the-mill
hands will be*, and the more likely a player is to go
broke from any bankroll level.

I can see between two positive-expectation games
that choosing the less volatile one might be a wise
choice for someone whose goal is to last longer in
one session because he has a small bankroll.
Although one's required long-term bankroll gets
smaller the higher the game EV.

If you have a small bankroll, and your goal is simply
to make that bankroll last, expectation is a lot less
critical than variance. For example, let's say I have
a $500 bankroll to play $1 VP. It doesn't matter
whether I play FPDW or 8/5 JoB, I'm probably going
broke in short order anyway. Now, if I have a $50,000
bankroll for $1 VP, it makes a ton of difference. But
let's say I have a $1,500 bankroll and I want it to
last through 50k coin-in. I likely have a much better
shot at achieving this goal playing 9/6 JoB than I do
playing 10/7 DB, expectation be damned.

But I pay for this privilege - the EV difference
between my EV at JoB and at DB. In the same way, if I
compel the VP strategy gurus to provide a risk-averse
strategy, I pay for the privilege of playing that game
as well - the difference between Max ER EV and the VR
strategy's EV.

I still think we are on a slippery slope when we
discuss this "in front of the children," but I need
to understand this thoroughly so I can give newbies
and people with different goals the most useful
advice. It seems to me that most people who deviate
from Max EV strategy or choose games like negative
DDB instead of positive games are actually
increasing their risk as well as losing EV. Is this
not true?

Choosing a lower expectation game doesn't change your
session risk that much. It changes your long-term risk
a lot, of course. But if you derive a significant
enough chunk of utility from the ability to keep
playing for longer, then it may be rational to choose
a lower EV and lower variance game. However, choosing
a lower EV but *higher* volatility game, such as DDB,
is almost certainly worse in all cases.

Jerrod Ankenman

···

--- Jean Scott <QueenofComps@frugalgambler.biz> wrote:

____________________________________________________
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http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

sometimes choose a lower EV game even when a higher one is
available? For example, choose JoB instead of FPDW because of its
lower volatility - they would be more likely to last longer on a
smaller session bankroll although if they did this every session, in
the long term (infinity) they would be net losers because JoB is a
negative game.

Hi Jean:

My strictly amateur opinion in this discussion is that this is a
viable strategy for a specific goal. I wanted to get established at
a new casino that was offering bonus $100 cashback for 1000 points
($10K coin in) on a specific day. I chose JoB at the $.50 level
(over $.25 FPDW or NSUD at higher denoms) figuring the decreased
volatility would keep me in the game longer for less money. I'm not
sure if mathematically it was the best play, but I was able to rack
up the points for $200 at a small net loss for the day with the add'l
cashback. The offers I get now have been worth it.

Drew

···

--- In vpFREE@yahoogroups.com, "Jean Scott" <QueenofComps@f...> wrote:

However, would a minimum risk player (who believed in the math)

I apologize for the delay in responding, I was on vacation last week and
it has taken a couple of days to get caught up with my email.

This was a thread from quite awhile back, but I am looking at this subject
again. I would like Steve Jacobs and others answers to this question:

I know that a minimum risk strategy will vary from the Max ER one for the
same game. However, would a minimum risk player (who believed in the math)
sometimes choose a lower EV game even when a higher one is available?

Yes, but it is unlikely to happen if the difference in EV is large. Higher EV
usually (but not always) implies lower risk, and vice-versa.

For
example, choose JoB instead of FPDW because of its lower volatility - they
would be more likely to last longer on a smaller session bankroll although
if they did this every session, in the long term (infinity) they would be
net losers because JoB is a negative game. Would they be better to stick
to FPDW and vary their strategy to a lower-risk one?

Whenever a player compares a negative game to a positive game, the
positive game will _always_ be lower risk than the negative game. This
same principle applies to virtually any alternate strategy that is based on
a "rational" valuation of payoffs (meaning that all else being equal, a larger
payoff is always viewed as better than a smaller payoff).

Favorability of games tends to track fairly closely whether you look at the
game wearing EV glasses or risk glasses. Games that are better from an
EV perspective tend to also be better from a risk perspective. It is possible
to construct game examples that violate this principle, but VP games in
the real world are unlikely to be so different that one would be vastly higher
in EV while the other is vastly lower in risk.

Another example, choosing between two negative games. Would the wise
minimum-risk player choose 8/5 Bonus over 9/6 JoB because he has a chance
for several mini-jackpots. In this case, he is choosing more volatility as
well as lower EV. But is this a wise choice for his goal?

It might be, depending on the size of the mini-jackpots. Also, when the game
is negative, more volatility often means lower risk. The only way to know for
sure would be to compute the risk parameter for both games, and choose the
game with a smaller risk parameter. Negative EV games have a risk parameter
that is greater than one, while positive EV games have a risk parameter that
is less than one.

I can see between two positive-expectation games that choosing the less
volatile one might be a wise choice for someone whose goal is to last
longer in one session because he has a small bankroll. Although one's
required long-term bankroll gets smaller the higher the game EV.

The concept of "required bankroll" is also relative to the player's objective.
Bankroll requirement is really just another way of measuring the "value" of
a game, whether the objective is EV, risk or something else.

I think the question of bankroll size is somewhat of a red herring. One
reasone to choose min-risk strategy is to get the highest probability of
turning a starting bankroll into some target bankroll. The size of
initial bankroll doesn't matter, nor does having your bankroll change in
value, larger or smaller. The min-risk strategy gives the player the
absolute best chance of reaching the target bankroll before going broke.
A player who uses a min-risk strategy while their bankroll is small and
a max-EV strategy when their bankroll is large is probably a player who
hasn't decided what they are really trying to accomplish (here I say
"probably" only because there are some mathematical objectives
which require the strategy to change as the bankroll changes.)

If you want the best chance of reaching your final destination, then
min-risk is a better strategy than any other. If you care more about
"wage rate" in terms of dollars won per hour played, then max-EV is
better. Neither choice is "right" or "wrong", but mixing strategies only
ensures that you achieve neither objective.

I still think we are on a slippery slope when we discuss this "in front of
the children,"

Yes, good thing there are only adults here :wink:

Seriously, I'm of the opposite opinion. Knowledge is power. Avoiding
discussion of alternate strategies only serves to perpetuate the false
notion that EV is somehow "more meaningful" than other objectives
(not to mention the ridiculous notion that max-EV is the "only correct
way to play.")

but I need to understand this thoroughly so I can give
newbies and people with different goals the most useful advice. It seems
to me that most people who deviate from Max EV strategy or choose games
like negative DDB instead of positive games are actually increasing their
risk as well as losing EV. Is this not true?

I haven't seen any cases where there was a mathematical justfication for
choosing a negative game over a positive one. Min-risk would always
choose the positive game, and so would min-cost and best-shot-at-royal
strategies. It might be justified when time is a critical factor (if you
need $X ransom before midnight), but when no deadline is imposed,
I don't know of any alternate strategy that would choose a losing game
over a winning game.

As for deviating from max-EV strategy, most players never learn any
math-based strategy, and thus deviate by default. These players probably
play suboptimally by virtually any mathematical measure. So, learning _any_
optimal strategy would almost certainly improve their EV, lower their risk,
and improve their performance by many other measures. The max-EV
strategy is certainly not special in this regard, so this shouldn't be taken
as justification to claim that deviating from max-EV is inherently bad.

I believe that the hardest part about giving "useful advice" is to find out
what the person asking the advice truly wants to accomplish, so that the
advice isn't just a projection of the advisor's objectives. My best generic
advice: choose the objective best for you, and try to play the strategy
that is optimal for that objective. Great in theory, not so easy in practice.

I think it is unfortunate that EV became the de-facto standard for comparing
games. Newbies would probably be better served by using min-risk strategy
as a starting point, and deciding later if they should take on additional risk
in order to achieve other objectives. I suppose it will be a long time (if
ever) until VP programs are able to support that approach.

···

On Saturday 13 August 2005 03:45 pm, Jean Scott wrote: